Yeah, I'd like to see/hear it when it's done.

Could have been another mod to consider, changing valve guides. With that you could have used custom guides or crossed to something that would fit which would have allowed the adapting to a "locking" seal and many other options. Just my mind going in many different vectors at the same time...

Might have read that and forgot, getting old.

Why would you need dual springs with this engine? Plan on running some high RPM? Just curious. When I want to kick the revs up on a 22R I like using "beehive" springs. Instead of running the higher spring rates associated with dual springs the beehive springs keep lower sring rates while c...

Is there a rebuilder locally? Best chance to get the job done. Another question is, is it the distributor or the regulator? ECU? Maybe it's time to find alternatives. The supercharger is becoming extinct and the alternator is being an issue as well. Keeping limited edition anything can be a challenge.

Thanks! I'll take a stroll through that site.

Yeah, I looked, didn't find it.

Looking for info on swapping a 4AGE into a TE33X. Thought I read somewhere I nee the AE86 crossmember to get the job done. Figure that would facilitate a rack & pinion upgrade as well.

Anybody have a clue or link I can check out?

Thanks.

The forgings I have for my 22RE stroker, 93 bore, 94 stroke, 2550cc, are 4032. Still gotta idle for a minute before driving to staunch the rattle. Sound normal after the engine gets up to operating temp. Hypereutetic slugs would be better for this engine since it never gets hard use. Yep, casting co...

That "rattle" depends on the alloy of the forged piston. "Street" forgeged pistons using a different alloy than "racing" pistons didn't need so much clearance. Wish I could remember the different alloys. The "street" alloy was also less rigid than the "ra...

So many sytems out there. Still trying to catch up with Nissans Atessa.

Would be nice to adapt a complete stability control to an older car. I'd like to see adaptations to the AW11 and the SW20, especially for newer drivers in that couple of cars. So many peeps get into trouble with them.

Carbs are SOLD!

Trans oil/fluid? I found an oil, Ford offering, that has additives to reduce friction and EP additives that do a fantastic job, maybe too good. Check with your Ford dealer. Reducing gear endplay keeps more face contact with the gears. Straight gears tend to be better as well. Reducing endplay also h...

Caster and SAI have modulate your steering feedback and centering. The new "electronic"steering assist" sense the column movement and will work with the feedback to center the wheel, at least it should.

Techno Toy Tuning has a set of steering arms that allow many adjustments. Take a look at them. As for the quick steer racks, they're not too bad unless you add a steeper caster angle. Smaller steering wheels just make extended track periods tiring, auto-X and drifing not so bad. Spaghetti arms are b...

I have the Quaife kit in my AW11. I love it! Few things to keep in mind. Steering gets a bit heavier. keep the stock diameter steering wheel, or build up your arms Keep the stock caster, or build up your arms Smaller diameter wheel and increase your caster adjustment, build up your arms Really thoug...

Actually, I think I'd rather go a step lower than that. A little more lift with a little lass duration. Imma putt putter now. Would like to get a set for my next 7AGE. Would actually like to be close to a 205-8 @.050"degree duration with @ 8.5mm lift. Wish I could get some grinds I used in my V...

You pass! A+

If the engine is to retain stock electronics I'd say go with the 3VZ-FE, unless you have good skills with wiring.

253hp under 9000rpm is really good! Especially NA. Cams I'm running are a grind from Kamakaze cams, got them through Matrix garage, 266*/238*@.050" 8.65mm lift at cam. Decent cam, timed now for smog and smoothest idle. Pulls good from 4000rpm all the way to fuel cut, stock ECU. change the timin...

I'll keep looking, save a bit of hassle.

Can't wait to read this one. Not too sure longer duration will be detrimental to this particular stroke though. I think the HKS kit was happy at 10k rpm.

I'd look for a bit more lift and pay attention to the lobe centers and timing in a longer stroke app.

Did you plan to use a dry-sump oil system?

Found the pistons, can't find the box the rings are in.

I may have asked this question…but is this worth getting? http://www.raceeng.com/p-47161-darton-dry-sleeve-kit-toyota-4age-83mm-borekit.aspx If they're ductile iron, yes, it's harder than the cast iron in the 4A block. If they're steel? Definately! I've always believed the bore could be increased t...

Ok, I'll go look around for them.

These are just cheap stock replaccement pistons. I've used them in the past for stock rebuilds without issue. BUT. If you are breking ring lands maybe your tune is off or your use is a tad bit harsher than the stock offerings can deal with. If you want to use these I'll dig them up and see if I can ...

If you do need, I have a set of aftermarket pistons, High comp style.

throw enogh money at anything, you'd most likely get it to do what you want aftermarket stroker kit build alone is an expensive, 'low yield' route Parts from exotica is next level. Atlantic head, 1 comp ring, crank, rod, block/deck/sleeve, etc... Ironic, that the hardcore A-series build demands so ...

Never mind, that 1996cc was an 82mm bore.

Yes, the drag racers are pumping 1000+hp from those 7A based engines.
But 300 from an "A" series is some serious nuts. I'm happy with around half that with a putt putt torque torque curve.

With that sleeve/deck extension, were they able to get an 84mm bore?

1900cc? What build was it, 4A or 7A? As 83 x 83 only equals 1796cc, it would have to have begun as a 7A build to get to 1900cc. I'm pretty sure this is it.... https://www.club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1016&p=3451&hilit=billy#p3451 That's what I was shooting at. I just didn't wa...