I was going to gold wrap the firewall on the exhaust area. Maybe worth a look?


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Not really any meed to remove the plastic covers. If you notice, there's a small indentation already on the plastic for the two adjusting screws for the height and lateral angle of the lights. If memory serves, you can find the reference height of the beam (facing a wall at a certain distance) you n...

Household alcohol (around 98 proof) might remove the paint...?


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So the bumper's just held by those two top holes? I'd be so scared of losing it... Let us know about those plans to hold it from other spots


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Sweet! Saw your pics a few days ago on fb. Any difference in rigidity with the swangbiz bar? How heavy are they?


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Ouch! They sure don't make deals in that jy... :-/


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Nice! Good progress!!


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I've always thought of putting vel stacks and then isolate them in a plenum, probably the stock one, or make one that fits them, getting not too long stacks, like what my engine builder recommends me to get (63mm) so that they fit with the plenum, and then have that "protected" by connecti...

I wish there was an actual study on our engines on which length to use when, and more importantly, why, to understand the reasoning behind it.

D'oh! Sorry about the funny naming for the spacesaver tires. We call them cookie tires here in Spain due to their size and shape.


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4x114.3 is the bolt pattern, or the distance between the studs on the hub. 14 and 15 inch is the rim diameter. 5-8J is the width of the rim Offset is a measure of this. Sorry but I think if I try to put this into words I'll make it more confusing: http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/01/8ce5229e6a10...

4x114.3 and try to get around 14 or 15", 5 to 8J wide, and an offset between +0 and +25, more or less Easier said than done, though... Best bet is to try to source an original cookie tire, as the regulars don't fit flush with the floor, unless they're quite thin or else you don't have the cardb...

195/50R15 is near the same diameter as 185/60R14 which is the stock tire size. So you're good on that.


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AFAIK, all 4AGEs in these cars all over the world came with a 4.3 ratio and the same T50 ratios. So it should have the same, I'd think. Maybe Jondee can confirm this.


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Try asking for a used replacement on the wtb section or the Facebook groups. I'll be surprised of it's even available bnib.


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Well clutch bearing wouldn't make the crunching noise. Did you get to change the gearbox oil yet? If so, which one did you use? That also might help with a smooth shift. Personally I like how the Redline MT85 makes the box work more than any other (Motul included)


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Couldn't that be the clutch bearing asking for a replacement? If standing still with the engine on, is there a different sound if you press and de-press the clutch pedal?


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Yup. Those are defo not stock t50 ratios. Nice!! I want to do the same to my car and fit a cusco type C gearset with an Mfactory 5th


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Yup! That's definitely worth a try!


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Something came up amd I might not be able to do it today, but I will take pics for you asap.


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I'm going to have to go through this exact thing of rebuilding my 86 front calipers myself, probably as soon as tomorrow. I'll try to post some pics, although the Portuguese diys are comprehensive to the point making you fast forward, so you should be covered. Wish me luck and that all goes smoothly...

Ah, this thread has so much good knowledge about so many topics. So glad I'm subscribed. I'm also on the fence of heat wrapping my floor (preferred option by now, but hadn't thought it could generate rust?), since my car is LHD and my feet get quite toasty on trackdays...

No argument with the durability of the T50. Been using it hard for the past 3 years on tracks and canyons all over the world, and my only gripe has to be the spacing I mentioned above. Then again, I was using a mostly stock engine. Let's see how much I can say the same after going through 50% more h...

The TRD sets were/are known as TRD5 (the one that changes all but 4th) and TRD3 (1st, 2nd and 3rd). TRD5 was clearly made for the racetrack. First is super tall (55MPH in a 4.3) and the rest get progressively closer until 4th to 5th is even shorter than stock! (I wouldn't fit the shorter 5th). Besid...

Well, about that, you might notice the jump from 3rd to 4th is excessively tall; and just as silly is how short the jump from 4th to fifth is. Not a fan of the ridiculously short first, either... Personally I am going to change my ratios to a Cusco Type C ratios (taller 1st-3rd), as well as adding M...

Great stuff on the meshes for the itbs, Jondee.

Keep up the good work, Aceforever!


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Looking great. Can't wait to see it running in a vid at least!


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Hi Jondee, actually, some cars (like my 1986 USDM hatch) came with not one but two motors for the washers. Speaking of this, I once acquired an adjustable intermitent speed (slider? potentiometer?) washer button from a RHD car. I've always wondered if there was a way to make the LHD one work with th...

The struts alone are good for $150 at T3 for store credit.


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It's so cool to read progress. Really into having this car finished. Gl dude!


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