thank you all and im looking to some day get it up in the 300 to 400 hp range and full race and weekend driver. But for now i jest had a kid and want more power with little money. right now the car is a daliy. time is all the time needed. and as little money as posable. 300-400 hp in a short wheel ...

front? back?
which bracket? the pad carrier? the part that bolts to the spindle?

A pic could help

Clouds wrote:^^^ Can't tell if you are being serious or not, but either way I still found that kinda funny.

I was totally serious(cause thats where the dude advertises)... and in hind sight, it could be evil and hilarious. LMAOO

check the 240sx forums.

it wasnt that easy. the wires have to pass through the plastic, then the terminals are crimped on and the wire with terminal is pulled into the connector until it clicks.


I removed the original terminals by uncrimping, and cleaning up the wires.

its the best pic i have on my imgur album of them installed. pardon my mess... lol. its a couple years old.

RLZ wrote: are those come with wires? or just the clip itself?

Just the bare terminals. makes a much cleaner install without splicing wires.

http://www.jegs.com/i/AEM/017/30-2020/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710925473&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848440&cadevice=c&gclid=CKCa6KvG88QCFcIdgQodhYIAOQ

I got these ones a few years ago and they work great, plus pretty simple to install.

O.S. Giken makes a good one.(pricy)

TRD- old but can be found still(used)

OBX... umm yeah. helical, machining might be required. not recommended.

They appear to fit...

but i got these ones a while back and I know they work

http://www.jegs.com/i/AEM/017/30-2020/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710925473&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848440&cadevice=c&gclid=CKCa6KvG88QCFcIdgQodhYIAOQ

dude!.. download the manual.

in my sig.

napa shows a rebuilt non power rack. IDK if it actually fits.

562 is L.A. area code

you can run the ITBs on the oem jdm map ecu, but it will not run very well. Idle will be **** amongst other things. IMO, going with ITBs for looks is a bad call. If i was going to go with ITB's: Forged pistons(11.5:1 or higher) Ported & Polished head, big valves 288* or larger cams, shimmless bu...

check out you panhard bar mount at the chassis. If its been curbed or w/e(30 year old car, who knows) the body side of the panhard mount can crack or break. inspect the ends of the panhard bar. make sure all the adjustments are tight, heim ends/bushings are good.

cabe toyota carries these.

$18

http://yhst-99618682857744.stores.yahoo.net/wabypi.html

I have a silencer for this. its 2-3 years old, but never used it.

oldeskewltoy wrote:my AE71 came with a 3.58 You are indeed correct, the need for 5th is nearly irrelevant. In my car with the 4AGE fitted, it wasn't horrible for acceleration, it just held gears far longer - I could do zero to 78mph in 2nd gear

This would be awesome with a turbo.

You will not find a vibrant header new. Power craft japan makes a LHD header.

If you are at the 800 dollar range for a header and you are looking for quality, you might as well save up the rest and get a JSP.

Wasnt this same engine posted here over a year ago?

Looks like a ton of used parts on a "Zero" mile engine. Used HG, etc.

http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2613&p=14375

Ah yes, the rusty cylinder engine.

GLWS OP

you will have to take off that crazy looking aluminum tower that the filter is mounted to and mount the adaptor directly to the block. otherwise you will have fitment issues with the header.

Illegal_Garage wrote:For a street build I would stick with the stock ECU
you can clock the OEM ecu to get an extra 800~1000 rpms
setting the red line at about 8000

How? Inquiring minds want to know... I want to try it.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ae86+jdm+map+conversion

Literally the first search item.

I just used a propane torch. If you go this route, have a fire extinguisher handy(required)

If you dont plan on using the rear, Just drain the tranny and pull the drive shaft out. Drop the rear with the driveshaft attached.

You dont have to pull the DS/rear end apart to get them out, its just bulky.

i want them to be threaded all the way, so can change out the ones in my coilovers

Dual filament. will have 3 wire connectors on it. Ground, Parking, Flasher.

Before you replace stuff. Make sure it is indeed the clutch, check out your master and slave cylinders. for a stock motor, that doesnt get drifted or raced, I would recommend a Stock replacement Aisin brand or exedy stage 1 for spirited driving. I doubt if you would need to replace the flywheel, che...

What all would be needed for this? for a 16v 4age

Module
COPs
Aftermarket ECU?

I wasnt trying to be a douche here. I also own this loud ass exhaust, and I daily it.

Some pics from when it was new.