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UPDATE: 5.5agze 20v coming Spring 2015

UPDATE: 5.5agze 20v coming Spring 2015

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:41 am

Sucks we cant recover all those post and all that information from the last website..so here it goes again the short short version of my engine and car build!

Spec list of car:
1985 (zenki) GTS coupe
Zenki Trueno rear and front bumper with zenki lip
Greddy Coilovers
Greddy RCAs
FC3S big caliper and rotor upgrade
Goodline Steel braided brake/clutch lines front and back
S2000 gauge cluster conversion
Saftety 21 7 point roll bar
Bride Zeta 3 drivers bucket seat
JDM Apex OEM passeger seat, Apex (kouki black and grey here in the states) front and rear door panels and rear seat
Omori vacuum, oil temp, oil pressure, volts,10000 rpm and water temp gauges
Brake booster stopper
Battery relocate to the rear
NAMs Shakkito plates
Revolver rear strut brace
JDM OEM side skirts
JDM OEM Coupe wing
JDM TRD Coupe wing (second trunk lid for race days)
JDM Zenki Smoked tail lights
TRD 1.5 way LSD with 4.77 R/P
Kouki Axels diff completely rebuilt
Hot Staff traction brackets
Battle version 50-50 4 link and pan hard rod
Cusco front and rear sway bars
Cusco Front pyro ball tension rods and brackets
Quaife Manuel quick-steer column upgrade (2.5 lock to lock turn)
Ueo Style inner tie rods
T3 outer tie rod ends, control arms and steering knuckles
LEEN 6 speed J160 transmission with short shifter, TRD engine mount and TRD GT86 shift knob
Custom one piece Carbon fiber drive shaft
Sabelt 5 point seat belts passenger/driver side
Hiyashi Street 15x9 0 offset knockoffs
Bomex power aero mirrors
OEM metal window visors
OEM rear window shades
HKS Oil filter relocation setup
Kyoto Auto fog lights
Earls 13 row Oil cooler with check valve and oil temp thermostat
Mekaru Japan cold air induction box
Custom cold air intake headlight mod
Saikou Michi duel intake oil catch can


20 valve engine specs:

Blacktop 20v
HKS Stroker crank
TRD Formula Atlantic rods rebushed for 20mm pins
Custom 12.1:1 83mm CP pistons with Swain ceramic and friction treatment
Tomei Ladder caps
Ported head and shaved head (12.6:1 final C/R)
DLC coated valve buckets
TODA R 300 duration cams 10.7mm lift WPC treated (modified spark plug tubes so cam lobes can clear)
Custom Ferrea valves, valve springs, retainers, locks and valve spring seats
Formula Atlantic spec 3 angle valve job
SP-TEC rwd water flow setup
Custom windage tray with teflon crank scraper
Custom 6qt oil pan with trap door system to prevent oil starvation
Silvertop ported oil pump with TODA oil pump gear and HKS oil pressure increase spring kit
Custom de-burred,polished (inside) and cemented block
2NZ COP conversion
TODA cam gears
Power enterprise AE111 timing belt
Adaptronic stand alone ECU with custom harness
Innovate wide band O2 sensor
1JZ 380cc injectors
SQ Engineering 20mm velocity stacks with custom Mekaru plenum (street setup)
SQ Engineering 100 mm velocity stacks with custom piper-cross filter (track setup)
Swain treated King race main and rod bearings
DLC coated piston rings
Engine prepped, assembled and tuned by Quicksilver race engines Frederick Maryland
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Last edited by gaijin_rokurunner on Sat Dec 27, 2014 8:39 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby dr.occa » Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:36 am

Very nice build gaijin! I dig the windage tray w/ the teflon scrapers. My sheets of teflon have been sitting under my work table for 3 years waiting to be scrapers :oops:

I've got a template for making main cap partitions (again, sitting under my work table to keep the teflon company :oops:). Have you considered partitions for reducing turbulence?

Loving the customized sump and trap door baffling.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:02 am

Well the ribs in the block act as partitions...and the main caps assist as well although there is space around the ends of the caps for turbulence to pass thru its very minimal and not an issue....I have a custom oil catch can that pulls blow by and windage from two places the head thru the pcv area which i modified and fitted a 10an fitting at...and crank case thru a port on the top of my oil pan so the energy doesnt have to be squeezed thru my piston rings to exit the head. Its a vent to the atmosphere setup so theres no recycled crap going back into my engine
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby oldeskewltoy » Wed Jan 16, 2013 9:44 am

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Tony... Do I spy my logo??? LEEN informed they would be putting my logo into the 2nd generation... :D :D

would love a side shot showing it 8-)
OST Cyl head porting, - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=300

Building a great engine takes knowing the end... before you begin :ugeek:

Enjoy Life... its the only one you get!
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:15 am

Think i have a better one but this is what i can find now

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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby morgan » Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:23 am

now the big Q...did you ever get a chance to dyno this bad boy?
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
east coast forum...
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:54 am

Engine is all broken in and when we started the power tuning one of the injectors started taking a dump on us making one of the cylinder EGT temps higher then the other 3 so we moved the injectors around and another cylinder started to lean out...final decision shut down source new injectors or send the ones i have out for servicing...Im using 1jz 380cc injectors in the engine....AEM O2 sensor was acting up as well so i swapped to an innovate wide band that plugs right into my ecu no wiring sooooooooo once the injectors come back we will start up again...also waiting for my ecu maker to update the firmware for my setup so i can tune each cylinder individually like the formula atlantic engines are... I will have 4 separate maps, one per cylinder above 4000 rpm for a crisper running engine the current firmware didn't allow individual cylinder injector tuning..update will unlock that for me...keep u posted
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby morgan » Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:05 pm

Dumbass gtfo^
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
east coast forum...
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:56 pm

there needs to be better spam control...the old site had like zero idiots like that above...
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby morgan » Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:00 pm

Discussing with Koji & Moto already.
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
east coast forum...
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby carbd7age » Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:09 am

Good to see it's finishing up! 5.5AG=~1.7L?
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:28 am

5.5 is a completely square engine 83mm stroke and 83mm bore final displacement 1796cc
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby carbd7age » Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:38 am

1.8L the hard way lol. Probably thumps my 7AGE lol.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:46 am

well yeah the more expensive way....best of both worlds though...more torque like the 7ag while reserving the rev-ability of the 4ag........should hit the dyno soon had an injector and O2 problem after breakin which is all sorted out now ...
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby ronny » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:08 am

BEAST!!!! envy..
Rays - Project Mu - TE37 club
BLUE MOON / CUSCO
AE86fightclub.com
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:39 am

Acquired a piece of AE86 history today...thanks to staff at Hot Staff a piece of history will live on thru my car...a little cosmetic touch up and paint and we are in business
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:41 am

hey ronny you avocado hatch you parted was what inspired me to build a 20v....now after looking at what i spent your price for that engine was a steal....lol....notice your silk road headers on the engine ????
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:50 am

Heres little write ups i did on another forum
block being hot bored, line bored and honed with torque plate
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cams are a special Toda setup not available to the public 300 duration 10.7mm lift they only sell 9mm lift in a few durations to the public. lift was so high the lobes hit the spark tubes and had to modify them to have clearance
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Block is fully balanced, blueprinted and cemented due to it being 83mm bore...the cement added extra strength to the cylinder walls...if you do bore over in 4ag blocks always cement and wait 30 days or so before boring ....Tomei ladder caps are used with ARP bolts to prevent flexing of the main caps at high RPM......must have unless u have custom main caps special harmonic balancer was made to absorb and additional vibration, its about 2.8lbs compared to the stock one. Custom windage tray with teflon crank scraper. Pistons are CP with ceramic coating on top and friction coating on skirts.
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Some port and bowl work on my head...also port matched intake manifold...custom valves with flatter face then stock...flow bench was 283cfm at 28 inch water and 10.7mm lift stock the head flowed 170cfm
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Final product.....u can see the custom harmonic balancer there..
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:55 am

Ok fellas now that we have a new tread I can walk you all thru my build .....I will make separate posts on different parts of my build, provide pictures and justification of why I did it this way. First Block preparation....the 20v has two types of blocks one without oil squirters and one with....Silvertops usually are the ones without them but I have seen some of the later model silvertops that were made the same year the blacktops came out have them. I prefer the squirters mainly for their piston cooling function also the fact that it provides a direct source of oil for the piston pins. First thing for block prep and a good practice for all sand cast blocks is removing any excess sand and casting flashes in the crank case area....this ensures no sand un-lodges and gets circulated thru your oiling system...metal flakes and sand finding its way under bearings will destroy your engine and crank journals...semi polishing the inside of the block also helps with oil shedding keeping the oil in the pan where you need it. Lastly I used a engine cement called Hard Blok to fill my water jackets half way up to re-enforce my cylinder walls since my setup requires 83mm bores for the pistons. If you cement your block it needs to cure for about 30 days prior to any boring or honing also after pouring it make sure you place it on some type of agitator for about 30 mins so that the movement can make any air bubbles rise to the top...I strapped two electric sanders to the side of the block and let them run for about 30 mins. Another way to do it for engines like hondas that have open sleeves towards the top of the block is put a layer of salt about half way up the water jackets.....pour the hard blok on top of the salt and let it dry....then flush the water jackets with water until all the salt dissolves and is gone what you will have left is a suspended cementing where water can flow under it. To compensate for the reduction in cooling area I upgraded the radiator as well as increased the amount of oil circulating thru my engine from 4 quarts to 6.5. Crank being used is HKS stroker crank with the 42mm journals..83mm stroke vs the OEM 77mm....no modifications to the block is needed for clearance when using Carrillo rods like you would have to do with OEM rods..
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Last edited by gaijin_rokurunner on Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:51 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:56 am

Pistons and Rods:

I am using TRD Formula Atlantic (FA) rods re-bushed to fit 20mm pins...FA rods are 19mm standard. The rods are made by Carrillo in their customary H beam style. Blacktop factory rods are the lightest rods made for any production 4age engine and come in at 476 grams...they are the typical I beam style and are very skinny in the center.....ok for stock or lightly modified setups but are prone to snapping in the center for highly modified setups...TRD rods weigh in at 398 grams each.

Pistons are custom made from CP because I am using a HKS stroker. The stroker was only sold for 16v setups back in the 90s so I sent a stock blacktop piston and a cast 16v stroker piston and came back with a 83mm blacktop piston with the pin location moved to accommodate the 6mm extra stroke from the crank. The piston pins and rings were sent to be DLC coated to reduce friction on the cylinder walls as well as the friction between the rods and piston. The pistons were sent to Swain and ceramic coated on top to help with any detonation issues and the skirts were treated with anti friction coating also.

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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:57 am

Oiling system:

I didn't opt for the dry sump setup for a few reason...its overkill for street cars that see track time, added weight for the oiling system and expensive. With that said I chose to keep the wet sump setup but upgrade it to meet my needs. Toda recently released a upgraded oil pump gear using a different type of high spec metal and CNC'd to closer tolerance then OEM. This ensures high speed reliability in the factory oil pump as well as safeguards against breaking at high rpm or sudden rpm spikes.

To go along with the gear the pump was ported to smooth out any sharp angles and an HKS oil pressure up kit was installed....this kit consist of a brass plug, a spring and spring seat. The brass plug is fitted into on of the oil passages in the block ....in the center it has a small hole to allow oil to pass at a restricted speed thus upping oil pressure...the spring is inserted into the center of the stock spring in the oil pump to add a stiffer motion and the spring seat ensures both springs are seated properly. The 4age is prone to low oil pressures at high RPM when the factory oil pump cant keep up...this setup will ensure I dont have that problem.

Moroso custom made the oil pan according to my design to withstand G force from acceleration, braking and cornering. I initially wanted a full aluminum pan but chose steel due to durability and longevity, also aluminum is prone to cracking over time. The design incorporates a stock pan with a custom tray welded on to it. Inside the tray is a trap door system that prevents oil from all building up on any side of the pan, keeping it in the center at the pickup where its needed. 3 drain plugs were added...on for oil, one for turbo train use if needed and one for crank case venting. Oil capacity was increased from 4 to 6.5 quarts for a few reasons. The 4age is an oil hungry engine, and the stock system just plain sucks. More oil capacity allows cooler oil to circulate through the engine by reducing how frequently the same oil is cycled and allowing more time to cool. this also helps reduce engine temps especially when u cement the block

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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:58 am

Windage tray:

All 4ages have windage trays but i took mines to the next level for performance and modified the tray and incorporated a teflon crank scraper to reduce drag...as the crank turns a windage cloud starts to form suspending oil within the energy made from the spinning crank. The modified tray allows oild to drain into the pan quicker, prevents the oil in the pan from sloshing back up into the spinning crank and shields the oil from the aerodynamic energy of the spinning crank which draws oil up into the windage cloud. The scraper on the other hand actively strips oil from the air(windage cloud) by interfering with the pressure build up at high rpm and physically scrapes oil off the rotating crank reducing parasitic drag which robs HP. A few other benefits of this type of windage tray and scrapper combo is reduction in oil foaming which can damage your engine, reduction in oil starvation by keeping the oil in the pan, and prevents the cylinder walls from being overloaded with oil. This is a stock tray modified, scraper is custom made

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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:00 pm

DLC (Diamond like coating) treated piston pins and valve buckets compared to factory.....tests show using this type of coating on high wear parts can reduce friction by up to 50%. Also pictured are drive train comparison....stock spring, TODA spring and the spring I have engineered, along with the stock spring seat, retainer and retainer locks on the left also compared to what I had engineered. Spring weight reduction between stock and mines 3grams each, and retainers 1.5 grams each. If you notice the spring seat factory is like a washer and the ones i had made are an actual seat which prevents the springs from moving around and rubbing against the head and buckets causing hp robbing friction. Last pictures are the custom valves next to stock...Competition plus valve with re-engineered tulip design for better flow into the combustion chamber, back cuts on the valve head, swirl polished, and flatter faced to bump C/R by 0.2:1.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:02 pm

Drivetrain:

To minimize crank to wheel power loss I had to go to the drawing table again and try to minimize loss best i could. What i came up with is some custom and top of the line drive train parts that I think will help me minimize power lose as much as possible....to begin I purchased a super light Ogura pro carbon racing clutch and flywheel package...I chose this for a few reasons....everything is fully rebuildable except for the flywheel. If my diaphragms go bad i can unbolt and purchase new ones, if the carbon disc wears out I can purchase a new disk and keep my center basket, if the tension plate goes bad I can purchase a new one without having to buy a whole pressure plate...the disc is 100% carbon fiber and are very light, very good friction co-effiecent, so you can use a fairly soft spring = light pedal, have a lot of internal damping so they engage as smoothly as an OEM organic clutch, contain solid lubricants as part of their makeup, making it pretty light on the flywheel facing, they can take so much heat then any metal clutch and cool a lot faster, the friction bond is more chemical than mechanical based, and lastly the wear rates are superior to metal and even OEM clutches and thats a plus especially at $700 a disc.

Tranny is a a custom made J160 6 speed from an Altezza made by Joe at LEEN. Mated with a 4.77 ring and pinion my car will be super quick on the road and track....top speed with my rim and tire setup is 162mph. I needed something a little more modern, stronger and reliable then the 28 year old T50 that came in my car so this was the best choice due to the ease of modifying to fit.

Drive shaft is a custom 2.75 inch carbon fiber one piece setup with steel yoke and rebuildable u joint....reasons I picked carbon fiber is its light, actually 15lbs lighter then the stock two piece shaft, able to absorb and eliminate high speed shock and vibration, vibration occurs at a higher RPM then steel or aluminum, my shaft actually has zero vibration up to 180mph and 11800 rpm where the same size shaft in steel or aluminum has vibration at 8000 rpm. Three times the torsional strength of steel, torsional spring allows for better traction grab, smoother shifting, better control out of corners and less shock load on the diff and tranny

Rear end is a fully built 6.7 toyota rear with TRD 1.5 way LSD mated with a 4.77 ring and pinion, slightly larger then OEM sway bar, fully adjustable 4 link and panhard rod and traction brackets....

Custom harmonic dampener courtousy of BHJ Dynamics...outstanding piece of machinery...should extend the life of my bearings greatly as well as reduce the rotating mass...for those using double row assesories they will be available in the future...dont kill your engine with those aluminum underdrive setups..the makers dont advertise the negative outcome of using them.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:24 pm

Intake System/Blow by Breather
Im going to have two setups for the intake....one will consist of 100mm velocity stacks from SQ Engineering mated to their pipercross backplate and a pipercross filter...this will be the track setup....the other is my street setup using SQ 20mm velocity stacks(might move up to 40mm) a Mekaru Japan RWD 20v plenum and a Mekaru power chamber which will be feed air from the Hot Staff headlight intake I just got.
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Not mines but exact same setup
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:29 pm

random pics from the shop during the build
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby kaosboss » Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:32 pm

Hey bro, nice build you have here. I have a question for you tho, have you ever thought about modifying your keyway to make it stronger. I have had my keyway break on my 4agte so i got the machine shop to extend the key on the crank.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby gaijin_rokurunner » Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:42 am

Im using one that my shop makes and puts on their formula atlantic engines...its a different type of hardened metal which requires them to heat the crank up and press it on...keyways shouldn't break, don't reuse them and your pulley should pressed on ensuring theres no play between it and the key.
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby John H. » Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:20 pm

This build is disturbingly awesome!
Keep up the amazing work sir!

-John
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Re: 5.5ag 20v Coupe

Postby Zenki85 » Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:37 pm

One of the most informative and great looking build I've ever seen!
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