16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lines
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ae86dipset
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Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lin
But just like stated above data would prove which method works best
Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lin
Yes. However, I'm pretty sure the large heater lines only flow when the heater is on, i.e. heater core valve open. When the heater core valve is closed water only flows through the smaller sub line (3/8" iirc) that runs to the iac and t's back into the larger heater line right before the water. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not really sure how much the heater valve restricts flow.
I also think the line off the back of the water pump may not affect t stat efficiency too much since hot water also flows through the t stat housing from the bypass tube that connects to the water outlet/water neck. I'm curious to hear what other people think though.
I also think the line off the back of the water pump may not affect t stat efficiency too much since hot water also flows through the t stat housing from the bypass tube that connects to the water outlet/water neck. I'm curious to hear what other people think though.
Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lin
Youre right about heater valve, when shut, theres no flow. That return wouldnt be there if there was no heater or IAC
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
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ae86dipset
- Club4AG Enthusiast
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:58 pm
Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lin
Ahh! I thought there was still flow when the heater valve was shut .. Makes way more sense
Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lin
Yup, thru the head then thru the upper water neck bypass tube connected to pump backing plate
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lin
Well, I figured id post my understanding of this. Hopefully it is right ha. If it is not, go ahead and correct anything.
From my inspection of the diagram picture posted earlier:
When the heater is on:
- more coolant (cooled from heater) + smaller return line from back of head + coolant from TB flows into back of water pump.
When the heater is off:
- smaller return line from back of head + coolant from TB flows into back of water pump
When the heater is on or off, the coolant flows through the block and head again and then out of the upper waterneck.
With no heater, no factory lines, and the back of the head blocked off:
Assuming the coolant to/from the TB is deleted, then coolant only flows from the thermostat housing through the block and then through the head. The coolant that flows to the back of the head has to find its way out through the front of the head. This would lead to higher coolant temperatures.
With no heater, no factory lines, and a line from the back of the head to the upper water neck:
Coolant flows from the radiator into the thermostat housing. Then the coolant flows through the block and into the head. The coolant from both sides of the head can escape into the upperwaterneck and into the radiator. Therefore, the coolant is not lingering in the back of the head.
With the coolant tube size fixed throughout where the coolant flows, the amount of coolant pumped is dependent on the rpm. The size of the tubes that the coolant is flowing through decides the psi of the coolant depending on the rpm. As rpm increases, the speed of the waterpump increases, so more coolant is pumped through the engine. The opposite is also true.
So in my opinion the tech arts style of routing a line from the back of the head to the upper water neck seems to be the best way to go.
From my inspection of the diagram picture posted earlier:
When the heater is on:
- more coolant (cooled from heater) + smaller return line from back of head + coolant from TB flows into back of water pump.
When the heater is off:
- smaller return line from back of head + coolant from TB flows into back of water pump
When the heater is on or off, the coolant flows through the block and head again and then out of the upper waterneck.
With no heater, no factory lines, and the back of the head blocked off:
Assuming the coolant to/from the TB is deleted, then coolant only flows from the thermostat housing through the block and then through the head. The coolant that flows to the back of the head has to find its way out through the front of the head. This would lead to higher coolant temperatures.
With no heater, no factory lines, and a line from the back of the head to the upper water neck:
Coolant flows from the radiator into the thermostat housing. Then the coolant flows through the block and into the head. The coolant from both sides of the head can escape into the upperwaterneck and into the radiator. Therefore, the coolant is not lingering in the back of the head.
With the coolant tube size fixed throughout where the coolant flows, the amount of coolant pumped is dependent on the rpm. The size of the tubes that the coolant is flowing through decides the psi of the coolant depending on the rpm. As rpm increases, the speed of the waterpump increases, so more coolant is pumped through the engine. The opposite is also true.
So in my opinion the tech arts style of routing a line from the back of the head to the upper water neck seems to be the best way to go.
Re: 16v rear coolant housing conversion to steel braided lines
Always run a the rear coolant piping in stock formation with heater or without heater.
The rear cyc. #4 will get too hot and will over heat speacially for track use and if you lower temps with a lower thermostat having piping to the back of the wayerpump will allow the t-stat to fully open faster. Rather than being half way open and track use rear of the head will over heat..
And if you choose to go SS line use ! -10an line but will need to have it fabricated fittings factory cooling line is 5/8th ID line. -8an is too small 1/2in ID
Imo having ss line going to back of waterpump and to the front water neck will be best again imo!! to get maximum cooling for track or sprited driving!!
The rear cyc. #4 will get too hot and will over heat speacially for track use and if you lower temps with a lower thermostat having piping to the back of the wayerpump will allow the t-stat to fully open faster. Rather than being half way open and track use rear of the head will over heat..
And if you choose to go SS line use ! -10an line but will need to have it fabricated fittings factory cooling line is 5/8th ID line. -8an is too small 1/2in ID
Imo having ss line going to back of waterpump and to the front water neck will be best again imo!! to get maximum cooling for track or sprited driving!!