CloudStrife's AE88

CloudStrife
Club4AG Enthusiast
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:00 pm

Hey guys,

I am new to the 4AG community. I'm actually pretty new to Toyotas as well. I had a Previa which I lived out of for 3-4 months and a 5th gen Celica which I loved but the motor was too unreliable; I love the Castrol celicas. I'm coming from 90's Mazdas, as I was getting upset at the failure rate and the lack of quality parts inventory for anything non-OEM. Basically if you don't have an Rx-7/miata you won't get very far..

Anyway, one day I guy had a GTS hatch for sale in the middle of nowhere Florida outside his trailer for a decent asking price. I test drove it and around the backroads and was just laughing at how enjoyable the car was to drive--and the 4AG was like angel trumpets :mrgreen:.

I couldn't stop thinking about the car and ended up buying it for $4500. It is a good deal for a stock GTS hatch, especially around here in FL where cars are horribly abused and uncared for.


Some pics:
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The issues right now are mostly leaks (Engine oil, Trans, Center shaft??), and old a** parts.

-Stock suspension up front with Tokicko blues that are blown. Needs full refresh.
-All bushings worn
-High pitched whine coming from engine bay at cruising speeds/ high RPM.
-IAC/TPS issue (IAC is more than likely bad/needs to be cleaned, car will only run with TPS unplugged or else it will die after turning over)
-Torn boots with possible leaking rack (would like to upgrade to manual rack as P/S is wayyy too loose at highway speeds, very scary).
-Exhaust leak at first pipe after header (unknown header, broken connecting pipe that houses the bottom O2 sensor. Initially ghetto fixed with soda can, exhaust tape and worm clamps. had ordered a Pacesetter exhaust but they are garbage and returning them. Hoping to weld the pipe that is broken with a straight piece as I have a catless exhaust anyway).
-Fourth gear synchro is toast. Have a full synchro set and hopefully going to have a shop swap them out and reseal all tranny gaskets with compound (heard the OEM gaskets are cardboard thin and useless).
-Needs a good deal of body work. The most important is the front radiator support is crushed in. I can buy a new top replacement (the thin part you see when looking down at the engine bay), but will need the right/left and bottom rad supports. No parts cars or junkyards here so hopefully Clubg4AG will come through :))

Interior is pretty decent except the front seat wobbles (Americans are so rough with interiors..) and the bladder for the lumbar support I believe is broken since it is very uncomfortable there. Took me ages to realize what the pump control was for lol.

Everything else is pretty much B/S. Just refreshing stuff. I have a whole garage full of parts and will be figuring everything out soon.

I love this car, and I can't remember the last time owning a car was so enjoyable. Updates to follow :P
Last edited by CloudStrife on Sat Jan 21, 2017 6:15 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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JDM20VAE101
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Posts: 389
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:13 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby JDM20VAE101 » Mon Nov 21, 2016 6:27 pm

Nice Find man! Subscribed for updates!
Ivan's 4AGE BT 20V 6Spd LSD Build Thread
Just Scroll Down & Enjoy!
http://www.club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4529
Thanks For Looking! :D

CloudStrife
Club4AG Enthusiast
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:13 pm

Man this site is a pain to attach pictures :)

Spent the day tearing down the front strut/spindle/hub casing thing. I forgot to add when I called a dealership asking about new strut casings, the guy didn't believe me that the strut and spindle were one assembly lol.

Getting the gland nut off is a pain in the butt, will need to get a different pipe wrench and probably a bench vise as well.

Here is a good blog about disassembling the front struts: http://betwixtfantasyandreality.weebly. ... -cartridge

Luckily for me he also used Kayabas which is what I will be replacing the old stuff with.

Here is the parts list for front suspension refresh:

-OBX pillow tension rods with brackets!
-Cusco 23mm front sway and bushings.
-Front hub full OEM refresh (all bearings (KOYO), nuts, seals, etc.)
-KYB Excel-G cartridges
-116-410A Cusco Pillow ball upper mounts with camber adjustability
-Espilir lowering springs:
Brand: Espelir
Product: Active Super Down Lowering Spring
Part Num: EST-063
SPECIFICATIONS:
Included: Lowering Spring x4
Ride Height Drop:
*Front: 40 ~ 45mm
*Rear: 30 ~ 35mm
Spring Rate:
*Front: 3.0kg
*Rear: 2.8kg

-Prothane (19-401-BL) Sway Bar End Link Bushings Insert Kit 2 3/8"
-Reinforced Tie rod ends (hopefully for P/S)
-P/S rack boots new
-New OEM front hubs
-New OEM L/RH lower control arms with lower ball joints and bushings
-New OEM spring perch
-New OEM spring insulators

And some other stuff I'm sure. I don't really know how the cusco mounts mount on as opposed to OEM mounts but I guess I'll figure it out :)

Trying to decide whether I want to keep the used springs I have which are rusted or get new ones from RHD Japan (~14k Yen). Also trying to figure out whether I want to powder coat the strut housings or just try and rattle can them.

JDM20VAE101
Club4AG Expert
Posts: 389
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:13 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby JDM20VAE101 » Sat Nov 26, 2016 12:17 pm

yeahhh, I just use photobuket for that here.

looks like a lot of work!

already got all that parts?
Ivan's 4AGE BT 20V 6Spd LSD Build Thread
Just Scroll Down & Enjoy!
http://www.club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4529
Thanks For Looking! :D

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CloudStrife
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sun Dec 11, 2016 10:28 am

Yup, I use image hosting too. Wish the mods would let us upload realistic size pictures directly... -_-

Here is a shot of some of the parts I got:
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Here is the front suspension torn down and laid out:
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Springs, spindle/strut housing, and knuckles fresh from the PowerCoat shop :)
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I originally wanted to leave the mating surface of the steering knuckles un-powdered, and I initially did, but you could still see the un coated underside so I just had them shoot the whole thing since it was free :). The extra 0.1" thickness should be fine, if not I'll just power grind it off until it joins happily with the strut casing bottom.

I also added some Cusco front RCA (Roll Center Adjusters) [#116 467 A] since I am lowering the car. I'm kind of a Cusco slut and I just buy whatever they have to offer.. I ended up not getting their version of the tension rods as they were around $800.00 USD, before shipping, and I'm not even sure if they came with brackets. So I just opted for the OBX ones since they were around $300.00 USD shipped.

If anyone is looking for Cusco parts, this part number reference sheet helped me out greatly! http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_product ... _list.html

Also got my shipment of new OEM LCAs :)
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I am pretty picky about bushings, and my philosophy is that if something is hard to get to and requires a lot of labour, and/or the bushing in question deals with a LOT of force, feedback, or tension, I go OEM. It's not that I'm against polyurethane, but most aftermarket bushings are of bad/mediocre quality (ex. Megan), and will deteriorate within ~3 years. I'm actually putting the Megan sway bar links w/ bushings on the rears, but that is because it is easy to replace and sourcing rear sway links on this car is a little difficult.

And not to ramble too much here, but most people don't realize that spring rates/stiffness and struts make more of a difference than hard bushings. However, like most of the offerings in the aftermarket for this chassis, when one uses metal joints/bushings (whatever you want to call them), it REALLY starts to kill daily drive comfortability. My plan for this build is something that is comfortable to drive everyday but also able to take the abuse of mountain runs, and I want it to last. I take my time so that I won't have to mess with things in the next 12-24 months.

For those of you OEM nerds that were wondering, here is where I get my dealer parts:
http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/

They are located here in Florida, but they have wonderful and excellent customer service. They also usually do a good job in keeping the stocks updated. Be sure to always ask if you are unsure about the stocking of a part, it will save you a headache, even though they will send an e-mail and will NOT charge you until they have all the parts to fulfill the order.

Ivan making me jealous with his amazing picture quality -_-. I need to get a better phone with more megapixels!

CloudStrife
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Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:24 am

Alright, now here is some really boring geeky stuff.

So I've basically restored the whole front suspension, and it was still cheaper and easier to keep the spindle/strut combo then getting decent coilovers. I do plan on getting some custom coilovers down the line, but in my experience over the many JDM cars I've owned, the spring rates aren't that good (even though my 2.8/3kg is funny :)) and the struts are usually subpar quality for what you are spending money on. Mostly I think people pay for the "bling" factor. A good coilover setup should be in the 1K range; not anyone of the Taiwan companies which were started by an Ex-employee, manager, or engineer from BC, etc.

Image
[Compliments of Steven at "M Factory"]

Anyway, I just stuck with Kayaba (KYB) Excel-g GR2s (or whatever the heck they are called now), as they are the best bang for buck at around $ 130.00 USD for a full set. Reusing the old strut casings, buying the KYBs, and using the old Espilir lowering springs I was given, will make for a cheap suspension refresh. I also got the top mount Cusco plates brand new for around $300 USD, so I am doing pretty good there.

The only issue I was having was refreshing the spring seat:
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in the reference picture, I just wanted to show how dumb I was throughout this whole process -_-. I ordered the part number "48471", and ordered two of them, as when you ordered this part, it also came with "48157". Usually this is because dealer parts like that are all-in-one types and you can't get them separately (a good example of this is having to buy LCAs when Lower ball joints are not available seperately).

So I got two, but unfortunately I ordered the last one IN THE COUNTRY lol, and there are none left. So I was bummed as I counted on getting a new spring seat and already sent the last front batch to the coating shop.

Then I started looking at the spring seat.

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I noticed that stamped on this new spring seat, was the "moulded" insulator with the same part number in the diagram (which I found later can be ordered separately).

I was a little confused by this at first, because on the old spring seats the rubber looked moulded to the metal, and completely different from the front insulator rubber (new):

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In this picture, you can see how the 30 years have warped and completely changed the look of the insulator. When comparing to a new one, you can see why I was confused at first. My guess is that when the spring distributes it's weight, the sunken part is actually where it aligns "happily" when compared to the bottom of the strut casing.

So I decided I'd take pictures of how the old rubber looked and gently try to pull it out once I realized it wasn't moulded to the seat. If you want to reuse your old one, leave the seat out in the sun, spray some penetrating oil on, and use a 50% setting on your heat gun and GO SLOW. Then carefully pry it out with a flat head, or maybe something a little less potentially damaging. The 30-year old Toyota glue is actually still amazingly good!

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Pics of old and new rubber insulators (front/back):
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So now the spring seats are going to go in with another batch off to the powder coat, as I decided to get the dust shields covered as well. I'll be throwing in the wiper holders as well since it's cheaper to go in big batches. If I decide to start tearing down the rears, I might actually just do the 4-links in the back, but I'm still not sure if I want to clean those up and put in new OEM bushings, or just get the Cusco non-adjustable pillow ball ones.

Then after that I can finally start putting the front together again :)

I might also throw in that support bracket that sits under the power steering rack as I believe I'll have to take that off anyway to replace the rack support bushings. But that thing looks like a beast.

CloudStrife
Club4AG Enthusiast
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:18 pm

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So I got bored waiting for the next batch to get back from the powder coating shop, so I deleted the EGR system and Charcoal canister. I was initially going to delete the cannister only, but I realized the car is registered as an antique and I will never have emissions testing. It took a LOT of reading and research but I learned a lot in the process and I am very happy with the results. The clutter is so much better, and I can actually get around the engine bay a much easier.

My reasoning for the charcoal cannister removal is that after 30 years, that little filter is toast. And it is not supposed to be a serviceable item, and takes a large amount of engine bay. If there is a fuel smell, I will buy and splice an inline small fuel filter (the ones for bikes comes to mind).

There was no EGR for JDM, New Zealand, and many other models as far as I know, so the fact that other markets had no problem coming from the factory in that orientation, plus the fact that I will never see emissions is most of my reasoning. I won't ever live in California :)

Here are some links that really helped me:

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=49805
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=49805&page=2
viewtopic.php?t=14755&start=450
viewtopic.php?t=12595

There is also some google images for MR2 engine variants that have some great images. Just search :).
Example:Image

My main mission was to keep TVIS, yet get rid of the EGR system and Charcoal cannister. I will be plugging the hole on the TB/Intake and sealing the manifold with washers placed in-between the two metal gaskets (not sure the size).

In the pictures I have what I believe to be the correct orientation. The only note is that the BSVSs are both broken at the "T's", so I need to figure a way to plug them since I don't have caps. You don't need those bimetallic valves if you trash the canister and EGR system.

Also, apparently one of the PO deleted the IACV and installed the block off plate. Now I think I understand why he said there was issues with the A/C.

And for some reason my "electric idle" is not hooked up, that is why that nipple is plugged with a yellow cap.

The last pic is the 4th or 5th cotton swab I took to the exposed hole in the Intake plenum/cavity/whatever you want to call it. It is caked in there, but I did my best to remove gunk before I ran out of swabs :(

I'm also starting to think maybe my TPS wasn't bad, since the IACV was blocked off...
Last edited by CloudStrife on Fri Jan 06, 2017 5:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

CloudStrife
Club4AG Enthusiast
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Jan 05, 2017 11:16 am

Just spent $450.00 on a 5th gear....
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Got Mfactory's taller 5th gear, as I'll be rebuilding the tranny and do not want to feel like I'm driving a miata on the freeway when all said and done -_-. By the way, should I also go ahead and get the 4.77 final drive? Whatcha think..

You can read up on it: https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/team-mfactory-taller-5th-gear-for-t50-transmissions.

I also got my order from Haxen engineering (or something like that) for a complete T50 rebuild:

"Hi Ian,

I still do sell the rebuild kits however due to the lack of supply of some of the bearings I can only produce partial kits and do not plan on continuing this business.

Kits are available, however with the following parts omitted due to supply shortages:

- Synchros (Still available from Toyota, but I am not restocking)
- Bronze shifter bushing rebuild kit (Polymer/plastic versions still available from Toyota, but I am not restocking)
- Rear counter shaft bearing (Koyo Japan - ceased production circa 2009)
- Front counter shaft bearing (Koyo Japan - ceased production circa 2009)


These are the parts I can supply:

- Front input shaft bearing (Nachi Japan OEM version)
- Centre output shaft bearing (NSK Japan OEM version)
- Rear output shaft bearing (NSK Japan equivalent supplied, OEM was originally a Nachi Japan branded unit)
- Centre counter shaft bearing (Nachi Japan OEM version)
- Input shaft needle roller bearing elements (12x - Toyota Japan OEM)
- 5th gear caged idler needle bearing - Split cage model (Aftermarket equivalent, 2nd and 3rd gen T50's only)
- Reverse gear idler bearings (2x aftermarket equivalent, 2nd and 3rd gen T50's only)
- 1st & 2nd gear idler bearings (2x aftermarket equivalent, all T50 variants).


Now, seeing that I can only supply a partial kit, I can offer these parts as a bundle at $AUD310 + tracked shipping costs. Let me know which country you reside in and I will quote you a final cost inclusive of shipping.

Stocks are very limited and what I have available is what I can offer. I have no intention of restocking as I have effectively exhausted the global supply of the Koyo bearings.

Let me know if you are still interested and I will send you payment details (I will need to know which country you reside in).

Kind regards,

William"


He's a cool mate, and a pleasure to deal with. I don't have the link for his Club4AG post (search T50 rebuild), but if you send him an e-mail he will work with you.

On the missing parts, I was able to find the bronze shifter kit, 1-5 Synchro OEM kit on Ebay through some samurai sellers in Japan. They should still have stock floating around. The countershaft bearings however, are another story. I'm hoping these are still good for my rebuild, but bearings don't last forever. T3 (Techno Toy Tuning) sells one of the countershaft bearings (I believe rear), so I am still trying to source another.

Also, I couldn't find any speedo cables, so that kind of sucks. I'm hoping the 80's Toyota designs are better than 90's JDM cars, because every honda, acura, mazda, whatever I've had, had a bad speedo cable. They only seem to last ~150k before they start making noise, or just failing completely. Usually you can go the cheap route and re-grease the internals of the cable, but it's a temp fix.

Other than that just waiting on the powder coating shop :)

I also got a Willwood 4 pot front brakes with 11" 1 piece rotors. Link: http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/fas ... 2011-4.htm

I was originally going to get T3's, but these were cheaper and I prefer one piece rotors. It's just a personal preference really, If you don't care what they look like, the two piece kits are lighter, although a bit more expensive.

I did order T3's rear big brake kit
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86 ... 86-corolla

It's pricey, but me personally, since I'm not doing the S13 susp. conv., I would rather spend the money on upgraded brakes then rebuilding OEM ones.

I think if I did this again I would just do the S13 swap. But I have learned a lot :)

I need to figure out my MC/ brake proportioning. I've read guys like to use the Nissan Skyline MCs (~1" bore?) But I'm not sure. Bleeding brake sys. is not fun to me, so I should probably upgrade everything in one shot... ""

Other than that just blowing money on a car older than me :P

EvoSolley
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby EvoSolley » Thu Jan 05, 2017 11:57 am

Wow, those are some serious parts! Cant wait to see more progress on this. Once I get the body done,ill be rebuilding a smallport 16v out of an AE92 and swapping it in. That or ill end up going black top, decisions decisions hahaha. Unfortunately, I don't know much about building engines so I guess ill have to figure all that out too. Keep up the great work and post more pics! I love seeing updates on the forums 8-) 8-)

CloudStrife
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Jan 05, 2017 1:54 pm

Haha, thanks man. I've never rebuilt an engine or tranny either. I'll probably have a shop do mine unless one of these smart guys wants to take a trip down to sunny Florida :)

I was trying to think about the blacktop swap as well. I figured I'd rather keep the stock engine and go from there. Maybe one day I'll help someone do the conversion and go from there :P..

Also I'll be taking a couple big road trips soon and just have reliability in mind for the next bit.

CloudStrife
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Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Fri Jan 06, 2017 2:50 pm

Damn, I just want to put her together. I miss driving her :(.

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A little while ago I got this clutch and flywheel setup from a member on here. I also got a OS Geiken plate to replace the used one and a new Koyo clutch release bearing and ARP flywheel bolts.

aceforever
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby aceforever » Sat Jan 07, 2017 3:25 pm

Loving the progress on the mechanical restoration :D Keep up the good work!

CloudStrife
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Posts: 93
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Mon Jan 09, 2017 1:28 pm

Got some powder coated bits finally back :)

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The pics don't do them justice but I am very happy with the final products :)

CloudStrife
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:24 pm

The big hold up is a manual rack.

If I don't drive this car soon my body will atrophy from lack of nen.

So I'll just watch Shuto Express and get drunk until I get one. Might even get an Autozone reman'd rack if I get desperate enough..

-https://youtu.be/-0s9KKMBbQw?t=9m51s

truenorican
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Location: SWFL

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby truenorican » Fri Jan 20, 2017 7:40 am

Nice progress, I remember seeing this on CL. I'm out of Fort Myers but I'm always on CL looking for some good deals on parts.

CloudStrife
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sat Jan 21, 2017 3:40 pm

Thanks man, yeah I'm always on CL looking for 86s and other older JDM cars.

I keep seeing that white SR5 down in Miami with the hatch rust. Guy started at like 4k and is down to ~1k.

*Also, finally found a manual rack and it's on the way. The powdercoated front crossmember and carriage bolts came back. So just waiting on the U-joint and rack to get here :)

truenorican
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Posts: 43
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Location: SWFL

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby truenorican » Sat Jan 21, 2017 3:58 pm

Haha, yea I know exactly which hatch you are talking about.

I'm on a hunt for a manual rack too. I have the SR5 to GTS conversion project on CL, trying to get rid of it as a whole but looks like a part out may happen.

I look forward to keeping up with this build.

CloudStrife
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:23 pm

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sat Jan 21, 2017 6:13 pm

Which one is yours?

And I found a manual rack and u-joint pretty quick on the MR2 forums. Make yourself a username, post a hello message in the newbie forum, then put a WTB in the classifieds. Took me about a week.

Ebay ads disappear too quickly, and ads on here get sold quick as well.

truenorican
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Posts: 43
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Location: SWFL

Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby truenorican » Sat Jan 21, 2017 8:01 pm

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I noticed my ad expired, I reposted http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/5969939703.html

CloudStrife
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sat Jan 21, 2017 11:41 pm

Ah, I dunno what you should do. Coupes fetch less money, but if you could put it together you would definitely go up a couple K.

Honestly, most GTS chassis out there are nowhere near AutoX ready :(.

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