Guess I'm going out and triple checking the wires again XD

Yea its not a stock wire I replaced all the old corroded wiring from the old harness that sits under the steering column that controls acc, ignition, and start functions with new wires. I been running this set up for the last year or two so with no problems. but I did take everything apart and check...

quick question If you look at the picture below I noticed that my car is putting out 12.4v from the red wire when I disconnect it from the starter plug and crank the motor but once I reconnect the red wire to my starter wire it only reads about 8v when cranking and the car wont start. I am able to r...

I know this has been asked before but I can't seem to find the answer from my phone. So the problem is I have a USDM Trueno and the headlights worked fine they would go up and down as they should and both high and low beams would come on. Last week I came home from work and turned off my headlights ...

Alarms often have a "starter interrupt" function, and if there's old wiring, where that may or may not have been bypassed, that's a good way to have problems. Did you find any "twist-n-tape" connections? If you do, put aside the beer money to buy a good proper crimping tool, you...

Optima: No big difference. "How much volts should be going to the starter motor itself? I tested it while not cranking. " While not cranking, it should show virtually identical to battery voltage as measured across the battery posts. Black or green at the cable ends usually means the cbal...

"I left the battery sitting overnight and then let the headlights run for 5 minutes;" That should be either let it sit overnight OR turn the headlights on after charging, not both. " battery read 12.09 volts" And ssuming yo shut the headlights off that would be a very low batter...

Run the headlights for 3-5 minutes or let a freshly charged battery stand overnight to get rid of the "float charge" before measuring voltage on it, to get the real voltage. I left the battery sitting overnight and then let the headlights run for 5 minutes; battery read 12.09 volts and th...

The COR is not the saqme as the usual relay. There are actually two coil windings on it, and two circuits that can turn it on and hold it on. One for starting the engine, when there is no airflow, and the other during normal run time. If the ECU sees no airflow it will cut power to the COR in the l...

Any-who back to my "click of death" statement I had to do some research. It took me a few day since the internet in Afghanistan is horrible. Not too sure if it has photos but, do recall them working the last time I read this at home http://s-86.com/article_relay.php thanks for the link, i...

The clicking is coming from the COR behind the glovebox, I did check all fuses and contacts and grounds first; the starter gets power directly from the battery via a momentary push button to start the car (theres no relay in line) which confuses me as to why the COR would click and the car not crank...

No, the manual shows two starters (1.0kW or 1.4kW) but that's the draw of the motor itself on the battery cable. They don't mention how much power the ignition side takes at all, from what I can see. That just powers the internal solenoid that engages the starter motor, and it looks like the heavy ...

Every Corolla I have/had has had voltage drop problems with the ignition starter switch circuit. I carry around a piece of jumper wire to do the direct to battery jump starter trick and that works every time. In on Corolla I paralleled in a bushbutton to the ignition switch. Most of the time that w...

Haven't had time to try and jump the starter yet but will try as soon as I get home from work. Also forgot to mention my car has a push button start system wired up as follows: switch #1: AM1 (black/red wire) is connected to one post of the switch, and powers the ACC (blue/red wire) and IG1 (black/y...

"The multimeter showed a 0.34 milliamp draw while the car was off; I heard anything above 0.50 is bad so I'm assuming I don't have a parasitic draw." You're misreading the ammeter. The clock, radio memory functions, etc. would normally pull about 25-50 milliamps, which is 0.050 Amps. If y...

That circuit open relay is the one I changed The COL is the fuel pump relay. It has nothing to do at all with the starter not working. This could be a ton of different things. Best bet is to do a voltage drop across the starter motor and starter solenoid contacts. Test voltage at the B+ terminal (1...

When you buy an electric fan it pretty much comes with everything you need to make it run. There's different ways to wire it up; this is the two ways I set mine up (super crappy explanations) One way I had my electric fan wired up was I grounded the fan to the chassis then ran the positive wire of t...

If the col is clicking you might want to try moving it around, and the wires going to it with the key in the on position. Just hold the key in the on position and grab the col and move all the wires around and see if there's any change. It's worth trying to help rule that out. I tried that and ther...

That circuit open relay is the one I changed and its attached to the metal tab correctly. Anyway today I charged the battery again tried starting the car and again the circuit open relay just clicked. then I tried turning the key again and it started right up?? Tomorrow after work I'm gonna pull off...

Battery grounds and positives are all good, is there any specific grounds you had in mind that I should be checking first?
also why would the car start if the battery gets charged if the grounds are bad? :/
and my commute is 45-50 miles one way

Alright so I found the problem. My car has after market gauges (water temp, oil temp, oil pressure) because the stock cluster ones are broken; anyway I found that the last person who wired the gauges wired them to my IG2 circuit as well as attaching the electric fan to said circuit, so that when 12...