Steel, Aluminum, Titanium.... doesn't matter. I want a full size spare that is the same width as my new rims... not looking to pay too much, but will be reasonable. I might kick in a little more if that rim happens to be a Enkei 92 14x6 +15 offset. ;) I will also be getting rid of some Celica-Supra ...

I've always wanted some 72 spoke Daytons with Permium Sportway 5.20s... 1/2in whitewalls of course.

I would be in if we did this... I have all kinds of little things that I am too lazy to post.

"LA" is a big place... where will you be? Staying around Long Beach or more inland?

When I did it I just threaded it on about a half inch then tapped the socket with a hammer. That is why I suggested the cloth because it makes it easier for the socket to slide on and off.

That would be one hell of an epoxy.... jb weld MIGHT do it.... but I would think that smooth surface would be an issue.

Notch the top of the nut kinda like this: http://cdn.instructables.com/FF8/Z1PV/GH8A5I5T/FF8Z1PVGH8A5I5T.MEDIUM.jpg Then use an impact driver: http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH02SEP_REMFAS_14.JPG This is only something I would try as a last resort. Hopefully other people can chime...

Looks like the ole socket trick isn't going to work. The only thing I can think of at this point would be drilling or cutting a slot into it an using an impact driver. Both are less than ideal solutions.

You may also might want to try something like a Mityvac. Might be easier for you to pull the fluid through as opposed to pushing it out.

I have a box of random parts I stripped off of an S14 before I cut it up into pieces (it was totaled). Random things like door parts, some seals and a few other things. If someone wants them they are free. I will be tossing most of it tonight in the trash unless someone shows interest. Please text m...

Put a old sock or piece of cloth in-between the socket and the lug nut before hammering it on. This will make it easier to get the lug nut out of the socket afterward. I lost my key once... it sucked.

I have a spare carb that would need to be rebuilt, a GTS passenger sear (not the best condition) and a 4ac head. I'm also in LA. I may also have other parts that I need to get rid of.

Not legally or legitimately. Why would you want to carb a 4AGE? If you are sr5, Carbing a 4age saves alot of headache. Less parts to source, less things to go wrong. I was going to say laziness... honestly that's why I want to carb a 4ag. I'm even looking into using a 32/36 that I have instead of s...

I am swapping in a 3.8L v6 supercharged L67 engine into my AE86 (don't hate on me I just want to do something unique) and everything is going pretty good except that the front sway bar is getting in the way of the crank pulley. Are there any after market sway bars that make alittle more room betwee...

I have seen this before and didn't want to do it because of the deposit, but now that I see that it is refundable if they don't do it I'll be sending mine in. Looks like the Black and Yellow plates are a little more popular... guess I'll have to get a set of those for my truck.

Thanks!!

TORPARTS wrote:Its possible !

What is this sorcery you speak of?!?

IndiaDorifto7 wrote:Just for my curiosity, will a carb'd 4ag pass smog? I don't know if I would ever do this but it'd be nice to know if it would be possible without too much trouble, thanks a bunch

Nope... not gonna happen.

I was looking for a replacement a few years back and called a few used motor places (the ones that import the old engines from japan). They usually only had 3ACs if they did have any. I've seen quite a few in the junk yard with them too.

Ok I'll go ahead and try that out. Another problem that I'm having though is that the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. I have been led to believe that its the MC but I have replaced that at least 4 or 5 times now and still to no avail. Do you think I just keep getting a bad cylinder? Are you loosin...

4acto1uz wrote:I would love a full all black plastics kit

+1 on this... Though I could live with someone just making a legit dash.

The car just needs some tlc. It looks like a good starting point to me.

ooo.... wonder if it has the swirl control valve on it... that is what the SCV stands for.

Something like this may work: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lehigh-3-16-in-Zinc-Plated-Flush-Wire-Rope-Clamps-2-Pack-7318S-6/100177388

Did you bench bleed the brake master cylinder? You may have some air in that. Also, was it a new master or rebuilt?

saiGone wrote:

Stsdude2 wrote:I found the vacuum leak but now I am 90% sure this car has a bad head gasket.

4AG time!

I totally forgot how club4ag is. Not that 4ACs are awesome motors, but a headgasket isn't too difficult.

Looking at the pole, the group that is setting this up is http://www.semasan.com/page.asp?content=startpage&g=semaga, but looks like the donations on that petition actually go to the petition company.

Sounds like a vacuum leak. I was having a bear of a time tuning mine. The dieseling and high idle are signs of a vacuum leak. Search on youtube on how to find vacuum leaks. Personally I used propane, but can be a little dangerous but seems safer than carb cleaner.

I see these "online petitions" pop up once in a while. I always wonder if signing them even means anything. I still did though, I really want the 30 year exemption back.

I have a set... Haven't been on the forum for a minute since my car was out of commission. I hope to get them back on the car soon.



edit: BTW, the company that made them is called Chastain and the model is Shadow.