New oem ring set for $40, is that a ST piston ring set? If so I'll take it.

Interested in the fenders if you're willing to ship to nj. Pics please
c86morgan(@)gmail.com

pacesetter sucks, i had one and it just cracked and rusted. they use mild steel which doesnt compare to stainless. buy obx, with the slight fitment issues, its still worth it.

carbd7age wrote:Haha hatch > coupe.

lol! agreed...

i agree, but at least it was named "americas toughest car". i saw the clean black dash...then they put a pipe bomb in the car. a bit sad indeed

miswuevos wrote:

idreamofdrifting wrote:California Pizza Kitchen?

yeah, "CPK" was the first 3 digits, so to hide the plate i just copied & pasted. we were laughing about it, glad others caught on.

...and the sr5 wins.

Cool, it must just be the angle in the pic. PM me your Paypal info, I'll take it. Thanks for all the extra pics.

Interested in the mr2 rack. Anything wrong with it? Looks like there's a piece missing or something to the lower left of the input shaft.
Circled in this pic
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/imagejzx.jpg/

Those are 20v cams and gears.

yup, they are looking for "americas toughest car", which means they will be destroying a red kouki coupe, but aside from the destruction, this should be good.

History Channel @ 9pm e.s.t. 2/5/13

http://transmission.blogs.topgear.com/2 ... ghest-car/

The garnish is referred to as the lid.

its an ae92 gts steering wheel. was blue, painted w/SEM satin black. yup, bnib upper rad support :D thanks, been debating lately...this body work is slow, its always below 30 degrees here now, no time with 2 kids, no time with my other part time jobs on top of my full time career...looks like tax se...

lids and corner lights are different

^thanks guys! did some work yesterday, almost done with the front bash bar. what a fiasco with the welding. ran out of wire half way thru, bought another roll, went to put it in and it completly unrolled on me...huge ball of wire on the garage floor. bought another, it sucked...finally got things wo...

You should connect E1 & TE1 to each other. Idle should drop slightly, for a few seconds.

You can find that thread that HaSport and I did collectively...without knowing it.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1353

do you have an AFM on your 20v? you need one of these 2...
1. AFM
2. MAP & IAT

1970's toyota corona rear shocks work too. i have a set on my 86, and the rear is stiff. big change from the oem replacements i had for the 86 originally.

Thanks guys, plan/goal is to drive it this summer, 1st day of summer that is. Got 2 complete doors today, which I shouldn't need but things got complicated and I needed to find a hood, fenders, and doors. Got everything finally.

cool, i was going to say i tried bending 6061 one time, 1/4" thick, sh!t just snapped on me.

flat stock or "L" stock?

payment sent via paypal for black dome light.
thanks

just let me know if you want them, i found them last nite, brand new never used.

I'll take that black dome light. No problems with it! PM me a price shipped to nj 07410. Thanks

I think I have a set of 4 L brackets from a nagisa rail I had a few years back, want them, I have no use for them.

Oh, side mount...do you have the L brackets? The Nagisa rails are made for that, ever seen one? They have studs welded to mount the L brackets

oh, if i only had the $ right now. glws, great price

i didnt do a full write up, plan on that when i do my passengers side seat, but heres a few pics... i measured everything before removing the stock sliders and drew a little diagram. then i measured the aftermarket seat mounting points and drew my final drawing for making the bracketry. then i cut e...

welcome, where abouts in NJ? check out the link in my sig to a local east coast forum, should be able to locate the motor.