I wouldn't use the torque-angle(20ftlbs, 90 & 90degrees) method with a different then stock gasket that won't compress anyway near as much, probably put the final torque around 90+ftlbs! Clean smooth lubed threads, smooth flat lubed washers & bolt heads. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.h...

IF the shock's instructions don't state it, put some oil in the tube to conduct heat away from the new insert to the strut to atmosphere.

The waterpump has much less then a 1 in a million chance of affecting water temp. NEVER even think about it unless its leaking, causing overheating from loss of coolant, or seized/doesn't turn freely/shaft really wobbles from really worn bearings. The thermo. either works or don't, it cannot not mov...

I appreciate all y'alls KSA's & writing ability, shame I can't stand wading through all this piss. My point here is we (yoshi, burdick, me) should be gauging the OP (or any OP who asks how to build his engine) ability, and desire to have it finished... and then helping him build as much as he ca...

DOES the whine disappear completely when off the throttle - zero load on the engine, then come back when engine braking/downshifting/putting the R&P load on the driven side rather then their drive side? The whine doesn't seem to disappear when completely off the throttle. NOT completely off of ...

Why is it apart, any reason to suspect that it is cracked from a really serious overheating meltdown, you're unable to clean it up yourself, something, otherwise you can clean it & skip any pressure and/or hardness and/or whatever test? DD or race or OEM rebuilt to last another 20+ years as a DD?

Nothing needs JB, the combustion chamber NEEDS metal ->gasket->metal, everything else but the pressurized oil port is fine with any gasket cement. RTV is NOT gasket cement.
Just scrape most of the corrosion outa the coolant ports, I doubt its extra surface area transfers heat better.

The head and block absolutely NEED a clean&smooth&flat unpitted surface, machined, but only on that circle that the gasket's fire-ring sits on, about 3-4mm wide around the cylinder that they mate against. Anything else is very secondary but does have to deal with some pressure, like the cams...

Whine during a so called break-in is 100% BS, there is almost ZERO breaking time with new gears & bearings, they just run a little bit hotter then usual for an hour or 2 at most- they're just hoping you'll go away and/or die. DOES the whine disappear completely when off the throttle - zero load ...

I was thinking maybe I adding some friction modifier might help? Gonna talk to the shop that did the work when they open but still want to see what anyone familiar corollas might know. NO! There's no magic lubeor additive that can cure or even change any noise except something like going from H2O/u...

i have a copy of two books on suspension "how to make your car handle" by fred puhn and "chassis engineering" by herb adams. went back and looked through them hoping to get an answer to the questions with no luck. i will make sure and pick up a copy of "competition car susp...

Keeps on cranking - plugs wet then look at ignition, plugs dry then look at fuel system, popping/backfiring then look at timing - cam and/or ignition.

Resurrected
Don't bother throwing parts at it.
X2!

Why is there air? :roll: Was it something I said? NO, It's way too much for what the question merits! **** *** *** It's just a design, thats all, you've gotta figure out what pushes what to do what you want it to do. Also, Don't mistake buzzwords & phrases like steel belted radials & CNC &a...

Drain the coolant, run it for a while with some flush or TSP or detergent & water, then refill. Keep driving till it dies, of course it'll need spark plugs & oil & some other maintenance while doing this. ...it seemed like the timing was way off. ...couldn't get fixed completely because ...

Ignore the notch !!! At least until it is verified as exactly TDC, then only for emissions testing. Adjust it for how well it runs. Highest/fastest & smoothest idle, then back it off(retard) for 50-100 lower RPM, then test run to check that it only pings/pinks/spark knocks/detonates a little whe...

Didn't care about the clutch pedal at all, only about the distance needed to move the shift lever from when the dogs just begin to touch until the lever is fully home into 2nd. Probably like TORPARTS writes above, even when parts are almost symmetrical & can be assembled wrong, it doesn't take t...

Does the idle speed change when it warms up(1-3 minutes to drop down 500-1500rpm) or does it not??????? Checked REAL WELL for air leaks? TB throttle plate's stop bolt& lock nut set for ZERO clearance, and slack in the cable letting throttle close completely? It does drop back to 1300ish when wa...

Does the idle speed change when it warms up(1-3 minutes to drop down 500-1500rpm) or does it not???????
Checked REAL WELL for air leaks?
TB throttle plate's stop bolt& lock nut set for ZERO clearance, and slack in the cable letting throttle close completely?

What's the compression? 'Do igniters usually fail on these cars?' Sure they can, they affect every cylinder equally and that sure doesn't read like any symptom you've written about. Cam and/or ignition timing is off, plug wires crossed or maybe an injector or two isn't working. Find out which cylind...

Now the car will turn over just fine but won't start! What's the compression? What does 'turn over just fine mean? That the starter works. Spark? Fuel- bone dry plug/s or wet & exhaust smell? Any sorta attempt at all to fire up/start/run from the engine or seem completely dead? Any pops/burps/f...

Whatta ya got, put in the same thing (or an equivalent shorter/longer life plug), that is unless the current plug isn't suffering from old age and/or mechanical failure? What do they look like, how old/miles/kilometers are they, and under what conditions were they used & what are there new if an...

No, it is not the clutch. No, it is not the syncro ring. Going into 2nd all the way, shifter travel as far for 2nd as 4th? How far does it take to engage 2nd? Idling in neutral, push clutch down about 3/4 or more and start pushing shifter into 2nd, feeling when 2nd's teeth/dogs just start touching &...

...tapped the gas pedal while giving it gas it would stutter a bit but didn't turn over, Does that mean it sounds like it's trying to start/run, spitting, coughing, backfiring(intake and/or exhaust), struggling to almost start? Plugs wet, exhaust smell heavily of fuel? What everything & anythin...

Close, but good enough to not whine or is it going to move a bit when under a load - I got no F'ing clue. Compare it to any drawing/picture for any hypoid R & P in anything - car truck whatever except a front 4WD, for the drive side , not the coast side. The BL means almost nothing except that t...

No.
Is the board fried & ugly looking & smell burnt, otherwise it's individual bits & pieces?

If you think it's leaking air, dump water on it, EVERYWHERE except directly down the throats or filling up the sparkplug wells!
Taking things apart and putting them back together doesn't do any good if you don't know what you're looking at or looking for.

ForeverSideways wrote: I am hoping this isn't a blown head gasket, thoughts?

It may have a blown headgasket, it may not, how's it running & what's the compression?
The oil is simply a leak or spill and is never any kind of a sign of any other trouble on this or any other engine that I know of.

El Gato Felix wrote:...I'm wondering if I could I benefit from an Iridium spark plug..??

NO, unless you're only looking for very long replacement intervals.

From factory manual RM069U 1988 Corolla FX/FX16 US & Canada
There's no light blue or beige in the color chart.
Igniter pins> 6=B, 1=B, 4=B-Y, 2=W
ECU terminals> NE=W, IGF=B-Y, IGT=B, G+=B, G-=W

Looks like the phrase 'master mechanic' needs to be re-defined.
Fix the MC or whatever is moving that shouldn't be when it's getting pumped up!