It is almost impossible for you to get the wrong lube for the rear diff, it's GL-4 or GL-5 Hypoid, no additives necessary unless it clutch chatters and only then a minimal amount of the stuff.

ok now I understand jayson I only understand that the higher compression will require higher octane fuel, that it is no longer a non-interference engine but will need nothing else unless aftermarket cams are used and that the tensioner isn't useful unless modified for length or changed out for an e...

builtnotbought wrote:can the internal parts of the motor be bad?

Possible.
What's the compression?

the head, short block and oil pan are going for a special wash at the same shop together with the cams. That means you are going to clean it yourself afterwards, completely, nothing less then removing all galley plugs to run a brush through every one. No one except a racing shop on their own engine...

Also, bent/stuck/hanging valve = ZERO compression!!!!

Bent valve = lots'a valve lash/gap = sound of large valve lash
That what your sound is?

Seal driven in or put in place before the cam cap is tightened down? Driven in straight?
Lubed seal lip & cam surface before install?
Sealer/gasket cement on the corners of cam cap?
Sure that's it?

blast carb cleaner? About how much pressure from that can compared to what the MC puts out? Remove the reservoir and look through the ports to see that the pistons seal's have have come back far enough to let fluid freely flow into the MC. Use a soft wire with a blunt end, gently, if you can't see it.

See that little adjustable rod that comes out of the booster & pushes the MC?
It's too long & its piston's seals are blocking the reservoir ports. Fluid should flow freely into & out of it.

The flywheel is balanced by the factory, those holes are where weight was removed and mean nothing more then that.
Just for good work practice, position should be marked before removal even though it's unnecessary.
Any feeling of 'a slight weight transition' is only in your head.

We think the valves are sticking. Any particular reason why, other then the loopy compression numbers? How do they sound when tapped with a hammer? Obvious spring action & sharp click from the valve returning & hitting the seat? Yes it has a sludge problem. No it doesn't have any other prob...

There's nothing to force unless the thermostat is air tight or the rad. is lower then the pump. You got neither, but you do have a potential air lock from that pipe. If that upper outlet line gets filled first, the lower line that is filling the block & pump &head won't be able to push any a...

No, you can't get a valid compression number without cams, and you can't even get an accurate comparison between cyls. if the gauge is screwed in when the pistons are at different positions. Those numbers are still pretty wild, no telling if there's an actual problem or just smegma on the seats of a...

Radiator clogged? If the lower hose is removed when full & cap off, there will be a stream the size of the outlet shooting out over 1/2 a foot that will drain it in seconds.
Any shop rags disappear?

What exactly is wrong with it other then looks????? First, do no harm, nothing that will clog the pickup. It either all comes apart or let that sleeping dog lie. Forget the running with kerosene or engine flush **** that's more harm then good. Yes it may have bad bearings & sludged up oil ring p...

BubbaKush420 wrote:I'll grab a new radiator and troubleshoot.

NO. Troubleshoot FIRST!
Look at it. Figure out what's wrong. Then, if it's clogged internally AND is unfixable, grab one.

You don't need a radiator fan at all if you don't sit much, even stopped at a light there isn't much heat being generated when the engine isn't under a load. After 10-15mph the fan will be doing nothing compared to the air flow unless you've got a tail wind. Using the heater to cool the engine just ...

Waterpumps, especially really loose ones like automotive stuff, can't pull at all but sure can push.
Is the radiators lower outlet going to the pump inlet?

Try any factory manual for any car that's over25 years old, that should have some kinda window instructions pre-gluein. Soap/go-jo & string to flip the lip over the frame & 2 people working together are all I can suggest. Old ladies do it in 20 seconds on assembly lines with the biggest non-...

Thermostat closed?

Low compression = cam timing is off.
#1 probably has some smegma on the seat & will be OK next time or else it's F'd.

The weatherstripping is self sealing, the only glue/adhesive stuff is for windows without it, or for those that have re-used the old hardened weatherstripping & it needs some help.

Wadda the radiator's core tubes look like? What did you see looking down into the rad when it was drained? It doesn't need to be 'burped', there's no air in the system if the rpm has been over 3000 & the thermostat has started to open. That HUGE flow will move every bubble to the highest spot, t...

Tour a car plant or any manufacturing for that matter, German pride has them interesting informative & organized, almost the exact opposite of a GM tour in Detroit that was hosted by a 100 year old security guard.

Remove block-to-bellhousing brackets, remove exhaust pipe bracket, remove rack's hard lines, then raise engine.

Tofu4u wrote:That area in the picture has been completely cleaned off from residue.

What are you looking at?
Sure, the block is F'd up & has to be resurfaced but all of that material, until you get down to the bright clean rings of bare metal that are surrounding each cylinder, IS RESIDUE.

inthetwisties wrote:...the throttle will stick. I've read that could be due to a lean condition, or a ripped diaphragm in the carb.

I don't think that you could read that anywhere except a ridiculously bad post on the WWW.
Linkage or linkage or linkage, that's it.

tak209 wrote:ok there is continuity... and it is secure on the chassis so i am guessing this isnt my problem?

Yes, that is not your problem because we see that it has enough enough capacity & continuity to be able to run the starter, but that any other connections can only be guessed at.

Army Fork wrote:...high-grade hardware versus the one-shot Toyota bolts.)

The same torque is the same torque, unless you're going to lower grade, so there swill be zero difference.
There are NO one-shot Toyota head bolts on the 4A engines.

...concern is properly getting the engine to run correctly while not putting a whole lot of stress on it before break in. Stress is what breaks it in, not idling. The trick is to not over heat it. Not the coolant temp, it will take too long for baked oil & cooked rings to show up on a water tem...