I was going to try heat shrink tubing, the thick stuff or in combination with the thin.

Whats the compression? Engine develop a cringy rod knock. I am a 17 year old on a grocery store budget OK, then FIRST, WHAT IS 'cringy'???????? There have been LOTS of exhaust leaks, loose heat shields/cam pullys/crank pullys/accessory pullys and whateveer things that have been misdiagnosed as a rod...

Any experience with any other cast iron ex. man. on any other engine in the world?
There is nothing 4ag specific about it.
It's very possible to break every bolt, without care & prep & technique.
I'd search for 'how not to break bolts'.

WHAT does it do besides not run/start???? No symptom at all, no backfire, hiccup, fart, cough and doesn't give any indication that it sounds like it almost wanna start, is a symptom of no fuel, not the cam&ignition timing per jondee's excellent replies. Just swap plug wires 1 for 4, 2 for 3 if y...

1. Racing bearings mains and conrod 4. Reinforced Bolts - Main Stud & Ladder Set (tomei) I really doubt that these items will help you one bit and their cost will cause you to skimp on others and they would only be giving you a false sense of security. Very few failures are caused by parts comp...

No piston has a pressed pin, only rods have pin that may or may not be pressed/clamped, pistons always slide/float. The 'fully floating' phrase is just squirrel talk. Same with 'semi-forged'. Just heating up the pin in your hand may have made it difficult to fit in a cool piston. They have a beautif...

Make SURE that the manifold is flat & smooth, same with the head.
Tighten it down in steps, using a pattern, inside to out or outside in.
DO not fully tighten it down on one end, working your way straight across to the other.

If it's loose, throw it away.
If it isn't, LOOK AT THE OTHER END &figure out what it is connected to, what is is & how it is supposed to work!

Gregxster wrote:...both said that it sounds/feels like metal on metal contact.

I'm more inclined to go with them and/or the poly diff mount, then throwing parts & WAGs at it.
Also, any suspension mounts that are hard plastic?

What was done to it since it was last running, immediately before the first time it didn't start?
Very similar symptom to the very usual problem of those unconnected grounds under the intake.

jondee86 wrote:...run just about perfect once the revs get past 2500 or so.

Thats all you need. F parallel parking.

Check for the same part numbers, or factory service manual specs.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

Maybe their head bolt torque wrench is out of calibration. With all the BS over accuracy & cheap & expensive & type of torque wrench & using a specific factory number, I very sincerely doubt that any HG problem has ever been caused by the torque wrench and not caused by the preparat...

Thanks.

matt dunn wrote:...appropriate technique....

Retorqued at least once and at least 10% more then factory?
Retorquing is SOP on every head, no exceptions but for that funny looking torque-to-yield stuff and using factory specs on a higher tensile fastener makes it a useless & a waste of $$.

matt dunn wrote:

daveskatesallday wrote:... the ARP studs would let the head lift ...

Same torque & technique & ARP goop?
Thanks.

How tight was it?

SR85DET wrote:...caused ignition timing to be off but cam timing was correct.

It's either both or neither.

Will it start quickly if the throttle is held 1/3-2/3 open?

ae90tuner wrote:Just got it running yesterday...

Sorry but I don't know what this is. Thanks.

5gal @ 3000mi oughta be better then a mosquito sprayer!!!!!

Does the turbo shaft wiggle or does it not wiggle more then 1mm?

Please tell me that the large black hose running over the turbo to the back of the engine IS NOT the drain.

Is the intake oily between the PVC connection and the turbine?
Does the intake turbine wiggle?????????????????
What is the black hose on top of the turbo?

bigbacon wrote:Sadly both mr2 forums are pretty much dead, especially in the mk1 areas. Even the mr2 facebook groups are devoid of anything mk1

Yeah, fug it, aircleaners are for P>U>S>SIES.

Carburated?
The float bowl has more then enough gas to get around a corner, and with the fuel line it has enough in it to get past the next block.
Running out of fuel is a sputtering, coughing, surging affair, you've got some other problem, not that.

Does it have a knock sensor and did you ever hear it knock/ping/detonate when its been abused?
Just do it.

Matrix Garage if anyone has for a Toyota specific, otherwise search 'hydraulic throwout bearing' for something that's probably adaptable.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Stock- ... ,1945.html

However, I saw that there was a 1 piece drive shaft by the company illegal garage. If you think that there is a problem with the driveshaft, jack the back of the car up and put it on axle stands. Block the front wheels, then get underneath. Grab the driveshaft near the rear universal and push, pull...

Do you reckon that'll take care of this issue? NO, but I reckon that if you actually look at the U-Joints then you will know for sure. Whether it is 1 or more of them, else it is internal to the differential will be obvious. I'd stay away from anyone that says 'backlash'!!!!!!!!!!! Also, nothing wh...

Blow......

namsutol wrote:...revealed a CRASH into and out of 4th gear-like no syncros.

What does that mean, there shouldn't ever be any noise moving out of a gear?
How's it shift without using the clutch, matching revs?

Gotta used cam gear to look at so you can see where the actual contact/wear is & how little, if any, contact there is going to be where yours is damaged? I don't like the lobe damage, but it can be cleaned & smoothed & radiused. Its shape looks like something from a low power, low rpm Br...