Are you using aftermarket head bolts? They sometimes restrict the oil flow to the clylinder head. The kits typically have one bolt with a reduce shank and under head radius for the oil port location. Dave W

For the setting up, ride height you need locate the car on four level pads. Your typical garage floor can easily be off by a 1/4" [cross-car] plus the floor will slope towards the doors. You need four pads, with the appropriate pad shims leveled to within a 1/16" or better. Mark the floor ...

I would just replace the seal on the known good distributor. Dave W7

I have to agree with Jondee86 when it comes to holding down the lifter buckets. It is a PITA to hold down the edge of the bucket the tool. If you have more then a couple shims to adjust, it is much easier to lift the cam. If you do not have to adjust the front valves you can actually leave the belt ...

There is another possible cause. Check to see if the cam has shifted f/A and is centered over the buckets Vs offset, which would cause the bucket to slide up/dwn Vs rotating. There could be enough tolerance is the cam lobe core to affect just a few buckets. Dave W7

You be $crewed! If you had a rare engine, a machine shop could actually sleeve the bucket bores. Time to look for another used head in better condition. You need to find what caused the problem. I would do a close inspection, of the current valves, springs, keepers, relative to cam spec's, before sw...

It's a 99% chance that if the AE86 wire is white with a black trace color it is a ground wire. Dave W

Just pull a spark plug! It will tell you the mixture, timing, and if you have detonation. If it checks out good, then I would look at the TPS. Dave W

Check your fuel pressure. min is 40 psi. How old is the fuel filter? Check flow out of filter. Dave W7

There is a cold start temperature sensor on the coolant neck that could be a problem. Verify that the cold start injector is getting an electrical signal. Dave W

As old as these 4AGE engines are, you would be lucky to get a good short block from a pick and pull. I would look at getting the crank turned [probably $90] that way you know you have a good bottom end. Do not but bearings until to get the crank back from the machine shop. Dave W

My schematic shows power from the 10A haz/horn fuse [White wire] to the horn. From the horn to the steering column [Green W/red trace] to button. The typical [White w/ black trace] to ground. Dave w

A test lamp is just a 12V lite with two wires or clips that you can attach any wire to verify that you have current at the the test point. You could actally make one by soliding two wires to a lite bulb. Or buy one at a auto parts. They look like a screw driver with a point on the end and an alligat...

Use a test lamp and see if you have current going into the horn. If you do not see current at the horn check the fuse. If you do not see current, in either of these cases, you have a problem with a plug connection or a broken wire. Odds are pretty low that the horn actually stopped working. Dave W

I have been running for several years without the TVIS system, and have not had any issues. If the engine is in good shape, you should be able to adjust the throttle stop and air bleed, once it's up to temp. I'm idling just around 1,000 RPM, with a lite Wt flywheel and crank pulley. Before installin...

My first guess would be the ground wires for the ECU. Typically brown wires with an eye connection to the engine. Dave W

You normanlly modify the piston Vs the head. You would not want to countersink the valves into the head which reduces flow. Typically those mild duration cams are not any problem. It's the lift [ ck spec's ] of the camshaft and that would require the piston needing a relief in the valve pockets. If ...

I would still bet that you have an electrical issue. You will have to trace the wiring and the plug connectors and look for a short or loose/bad connections, which will be a real PITA. If it was me, I would just run a new wire(s). I've spent hours tracking down a single bad connection pin that you c...

Check to see you the spark plug leads are switched at the cap. Dave W

Stalling: check at the throttle for a defective diaphragm at the linkage, which allows the throttle to close to quickly Vs slowing the movement during last dit of travel. Could also be the wax-stat problem. Fuel problem could be the filter. Break the line and insert the fuel line into a bottle and j...

My 4AGE is out of a AW11. The only real difference is the hose connection on the engine is a long tube with a banjo fitting at 90* Vs straight. As already stated you just need a cooler and hoses. Check out a Farm and Tractor Supply for the hoses. [priced By the ft] less then a 1/4 of the Toyota cost...

My first guess is an electrical issue.
Your oil pressure sensor is located right under your distributor. Clean and tighten the electrical connection.
Odds are a lot lower that it is a pressure relief valve. Dave W

The SR5 rear axle is more the adequate for a stock 4AGE. The SR-5 axle [S series 6.38 ring gear] will have a 3.9 ratio or a 4.10 axle ratio. The axle is probably the 4.10 since the original car was an automatic. This ratio, actually better suits the power band of the 4AGE engine. Dave W

My guess is that the engine was run with either F--d up lifters and or bores that did not allow them to rotate on the cam. Somebody had to really work hard to screw up the cam mounting gear surface. Dave W

It would be a lot more work with a 1/8" gap. It would be a 2 man job. You would need a 2nd person holding a copper block under the panel gap for each tack weld. You could only do a few tacks, then have to move to another location. The easiest method to reduce weld distortion is to cut a larger ...

I do not think you could find .060" under size bearings, and the journal would in all likelyhood have to be turned at least another .010" to get a good finished surface. You can get the crank journal welded up and reground to the standard size. But it's still probably easier to just find a...

"Super Nice" Thanks for sharing, DaveW7

The MR 2 alternator bracket will not fit, when using a standard RWD RH side engine mount. The RWD alternator bracket has an offset mounting pad that fits on top of the RWD engine mounts lower front attaching point. You could modify the bracket, if you have a welder?
Dave W

If you do decide to make your own cable, I would go to a home improvement center like Lowes. They have much heavier and wider selection of cables then what you would find at bike shop. They will also have ferrules for the end of the cable. You can run the new cable thru your current outer casing, th...

Chances are that you can not feel it in the steering wheel, but in the vehicle as it travels down the road. It will be most noticealbe when the car runs over an undulation on one side, the car will want to wander to the left or right. The higher the speed the more the wandering effect will be notice...