![Image](https://gallery.ostportworks.com/albums/userpics/10005/OST-070.jpg)
Back in February I was contacted to build an engine for an N2 Levin replica being built in America. The client was not looking for all out power, but they did want a big valve 7AGE.
more to come.......
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
Gripen wrote:I suspect a lot of work going into the head for this one. Big cams and valves. Replacement of the valve seats to accommodate the new valves?
from another forum wrote:So then the owner will retain the stock internals of the 7AGE? Or will you replace it with something else instead? :dumb:
from another forum wrote:Nice!
And what about the crank shaft? Will that be MRP or 2ZZ?
OST wrote:Back in February I was contacted to build an engine for an N2 Levin replica being built in America. The client was not looking for all out power, but they did want a big valve 7AGE.
from another forum wrote:
Will you be using a 4AGE Oil pump?
from another forum wrote:What is the advantage of the MRP's wet sump, compared to a normal AE86 sump?
Rogue-AE95 wrote:Epoxy instead of paint?
Have you heard of ceramic coating a block, for shedding heat? I was talking to someone at a shop who has ceramic coated parts for me, was getting some ideas. I was thinking about ceramic coating the 4A block that I've been using as a guinea pig (smoothing out the inside casting, etc).
oldeskewltoy wrote:from another forum wrote:Looking forward to this build, please post as many details as possible, also about the block assembly, would be nice to have a good build tread about a 7AGE, as I am going to build one for my car :dodgy:
Will you be using a 4AGE Oil pump?
yes... with a few minor modifications (more later)
Rogue-AE95 wrote:I'll have to remember these mods for the 7A-GE I want to build. Speaking of oiling and mods, would it be worthwhile to smooth out or polish the inner section of the block behind where the oil filter sits? And to radius that hole where the oil flows out and into the filter?
from another forum wrote:The Exhaust gasket you are using here, what specific model is it, and from what company?
from another forum wrote:Love the details :cheer:
As I am going to use a TVS supercharger 900 or 1320 on my build, with High Lift cams, I was commended to go with 38mm (37mm) Exhaust port.
Do you perhaps know if the 38mm gasket is a 1:1 copy of an TODA gasket?
Just to compare what the local tuner recommends compared to your work, What diameter did you get the new bovls machined to?
I think I read somewhere, that you use some old SR20 valves, when doing the chambers, is this correct? Is there a certain size valve that you use, or is it the same size, as the oversize 4age valves IN32mm EX28mm?
Oversize valve work, is new to me. so hope that I can drain you for some knowledge :angel:
mr2mk1hero wrote:I have never seen a better way to see actual porting results than that blue rubber thing
"I have used other valves to protect seats when I've done the chamber work in the past - when I have machined seat to protect, in this case the seats haven't been cut, so I didn't need to protect them."
What do you mean by this? How do you use other valve seats to protect existing valve seats? They won't fit over them?
oldeskewltoy wrote:
Essentially this is a 2 part job - part one, build the foundational parts(rear cover), part two - make a filler panel.
from another forum wrote:Not sure exactly why but I just love your tarp background pictures. They look a big step up in quality - well done.
The close up one of the cam wheels could be straight from a commercial.
Maybe it's just the bokeh effect but whatever it is keep doing it
from another forum wrote:I hope you dind't have to count all teeth of the cambelt to figure out it was the wrong one. :huh:
Rogue-AE95 wrote:3 injectors??![]()
Did I miss something, or:
1) is that an aftermarket dipstick?
2) does that trigger wheel bolt onto a stock crank pulley?