20v Megasquirt Thread

[mandm177]

I dont suppose anyone has any info that was lost from the old C4AG 20v Megasquirt Thread?

I basically have a Megasquirt DIYPNP that doesnt have a map on it, and was needing all of the basic setup info, as well as a start up map as well.

Setup:
20v Blacktop
Megasquirt w/sequential injection kit
1NZ COPS
Using Dizzy as CAS

Thanks for any and all the help!

[Russ]

A basemap can be nice but it's not required to start an engine with the MegaSquirt systems. After you flashed firmware to the ECU during the assembly there was a default tune file loaded so it's not an ECU full of zero values. You will still need to go through the setup screens and tell the ECU the info about your engine, 4 cyl, 4 injectors, injector size, trigger wheel patterns, timing angle, coil on plug and not single coil, go through the sequential setup screen, etc.. info about your engine. The existing default fuel and ignition tables have always at least started an engine for me so it can start to get dialed in, sync the base timing, and adjust the tables to get it to idle on its own so it can visit the dyno.

We've unfortunately never been able to perform an install on, or tune, a 20V up to this point, only a few variants of the 16V so I don't have a 20V tune to share. My personal 16V setup isn't all that different from what you're doing, ITBs, four LS1 truck coils, GZE 24+1 CAS, all sequential.
http://www.diyautotune.com/russ/itb-with-ls.jpg
You're welcome to it, I'm just overly cautious sometimes to share basemaps as it gives that false feeling of "it's ready to go". Even with the best basemap it should never be considered ready unless you've had your specific engine and ECU on a dyno together or if you can verify the tune on your own. Shoot me an email websales@diyautotune.com

-Russ
DIYAutoTune.com Support

[ga_goosh]

mark look through the archived threads.
http://web.archive.org/web/20120418130413/http://forums.club4ag.com/

[20valve1998]

I can help u PM me.

[Eightysixer23]

Hey guys ! Need help with mega squirt 20v. I got this setup through a member on here who had it running perfectly on his car. I pulled it my self and I believe I plugged it all back in to my 86 the way I can recall it was in the pro outs owners car. I tried to start the car and I got it to crank but nothing. Started checking fuel pressure and it for some reason wasn't kicking on. After checking the wiring I was only getting 8v at the fuel pump. So I jumped with a artery just to continue to try and start the car. Finally got fuel pressure and still nothing. I then found out that I have no power to the mega squirt unit at all. May I ask the dumb question as to where you guys are drawing the 12 v to the red wired pin on the mega squirt?? Right now I get no power to the mega squirt which gives me no spark or injector signal.

I have the mega squirt v2 msn2e
If you guys could please shed some light onto this I'd appreciate it!

[Eightysixer23]

Hey guys ! Need help with mega squirt 20v. I got this setup through a member on here who had it running perfectly on his car. I pulled it my self and I believe I plugged it all back in to my 86 the way I can recall it was in the previous owners car. I tried to start the car and I got it to crank but It wouldnt turn over completely.Started checking fuel pressure and it for some reason wasn't kicking on. After checking the wiring I was only getting 8v at the fuel pump. So I jumped it with a spare battery just to continue to try and start the car. Finally got fuel pressure and still nothing. I then found out that I have no power to the mega squirt unit at all. May I ask the dumb question as to where you guys are drawing the 12 v to the red wired pin on the mega squirt connector?? Right now I get no power to the mega squirt which gives me no spark or injector signal.

I have the mega squirt v2 msn2e
If you guys could please shed some light onto this I'd appreciate it!

[Russ]

The 12V needs to come from a source that's hot in both key-->on and key-->crank positions. If you still have the factory ECU plug this would be terminals B+ or B1+.
http://www.diyautotune.com/russ/ecu_terminals.gif
But it would also need to be hooked up in the appropriate place at the other end of the harness for there to be power there.

If you don't have the factory connector then you'll need to test out your ignition switch with a multimeter to figure out which wire has continuity to the battery 12V when it's in the 'on' and 'start' positions.

Do you still have dude's contact info? Is he local to you? See if he can lend a hand if he knows how he laid out his wiring.

If you start getting nowhere tracing down someone else's old harness it may be worth it to start over fresh. It's a MS2 wire-in system with a 3.0 or 3.57 board right? Depending on what you have available you could re-wire the engine how you want it with either just a harness if you're going to use the Toyota relay box or a relay board + wire bundle + relay cable if you don't want to use the Toyota fuse/relay box.

[Eightysixer23]

The 12V needs to come from a source that's hot in both key-->on and key-->crank positions. If you still have the factory ECU plug this would be terminals B+ or B1+.
http://www.diyautotune.com/russ/ecu_terminals.gif
But it would also need to be hooked up in the appropriate place at the other end of the harness for there to be power there.

If you don't have the factory connector then you'll need to test out your ignition switch with a multimeter to figure out which wire has continuity to the battery 12V when it's in the 'on' and 'start' positions.

Do you still have dude's contact info? Is he local to you? See if he can lend a hand if he knows how he laid out his wiring.

If you start getting nowhere tracing down someone else's old harness it may be worth it to start over fresh. It's a MS2 wire-in system with a 3.0 or 3.57 board right? Depending on what you have available you could re-wire the engine how you want it with either just a harness if you're going to use the Toyota relay box or a relay board + wire bundle + relay cable if you don't want to use the Toyota fuse/relay box.

Thanks dude this helps a lot. Yea I realized through looking at pin out diagrams.... The power for the ecu came from a connectors that goes from the under dash to ecu(14pin connector)
I don't think I need to re wire it . It was running fine . I have contacted him .... He wired the power to a black wire with red stripe on the"c" plug that's on the fire wall. But on my car that doesn't get 12 v.

If I take those to wires b+ and b1+ and soldered them to pin 28 red wire on the megasquirt that would do the trick right???? He had someone do it for him so I don't think the previous owner has muh help. I do have the original connector though and I know which is the one that supplied power to the stock ecu. I thought I just had to run straight 12v I see it has to come from a source that has power on the on and start position

[Russ]

Double check what you have with a meter before wiring it up to the ECU, but yes sending B+ or B1+ to MS DB37 pin # 28 should give the ECU the switched power in on and crank that it needs.

[Eightysixer23]

Thanks Russ for the reply.
Ok guys so I do get the lower to the ecu but only in the start posiiton. However I can get it to try and turn over but nothing happend. I have no spark and I don't think I have injector pulse

[Eightysixer23]

Also I may add that I did connect to my lap top and the previous tube was saved and filled in from the last time it ran properly. Maybe something I didn't connect? I checked for 12v on the plug for the coil pack and the injectors have power just not sparking when trying to turn over.


(Running on ford edis )

[Russ]

If you have power only in the start position and not in the key-on position something still isn't right and you shouldn't be trying to start the engine yet. Before the ECU will output any signals to try and run the engine it must receive the RPM signal it is setup in the tuning software to expect. After you get the power situation sorted out you'll want to unplug your injectors and ignition to verify that the ECU is receiving a good RPM signal. Then test your outputs to be sure everything is working. Don't just jump all in and try to crank and rev on the engine, there's a little 'making sure' that needs to happen before that.

MS2 has something *really* cool called test mode. There's a little song and dance to get into it, just follow the guide here
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/testmode.html
and just remember to only click 'burn' once after entering 12345 or it will kick you out of test mode. Make your changes and then 'tab' out with the key on the keyboard without clicking burn. This will let you test your outputs easily to make sure they're working. Test your coils before your injectors. If you test your injectors and put fuel into the cylinders first, the mixture could ignite when you test the coils.

[Eightysixer23]

Okay so I have to have power to the ecu on both the start and acc position . I thought it was just on the start position before the crank position. Previous owner had it like this as well it gets power before the crank and it should get the rpm signal unless I'm wrong. I think that I have some wired there were chopped on accident as well cuz I notice that there is like 3-4 cut wires on the ford edis module. So ill double check that and try and figure out the electrical. When I connected my lap top to the controler.. There was a rpm signal atleast I think there was

[Russ]

Once you let go of the key in the 'start' position after cranking the engine it snaps back to the 'on' position, so it still needs to get powered there too or it won't be powered up to read the tach signal and output the injection and ignition signals.

[Eightysixer23]

I got you I see what your saying.

[Eightysixer23]

Once you let go of the key in the 'start' position after cranking the engine it snaps back to the 'on' position, so it still needs to get powered there too or it won't be powered up to read the tach signal and output the injection and ignition signals.

I was mistaken.... I do have power in the key on position. The next step is to try and test. Now the first time I cranked a couple days ago ... I did get fuel in there do you think I should hold off on test the coils?

[Russ]

I would next unplug your injectors and igniter. Crank the engine over to verify you have good RPMs, like 200-300ish RPMs during cranking. Only look at RPMs in the tuning software right now. Key off and plug your injectors and igniter back in. Key back on and feel the igniter with your hand, if it's getting warm just sitting there not running the engine you may have your spark output mode reversed / inverted.

In the tuning software go to "advanced --> output test mode". Do the 12345 - tab - burn to get into test mode, then verify you're in test mode by popping on and off the fuel pump real quick.

Still in test mode come down to the drop down labeled "test mode" and set it to "coils". Use an output interval of 200 and a dwell time of 2 after making sure your igniter isn't getting warm just sitting there with the key on and engine off. You should hear your coil tick tick tick tick under the hood.

Go back to the same drop down "test mode" and now set it to "injectors". Keep the output interval at 200 and come down to "injector channel to test" and pick the first channel. You're running a MS2 wire-in right, a 3.0 or 3.57? Set like 3 for pulsewidth and 3 for injections. When you tab out of the injection field you should hear your 1st bank injectors tick 3 times. Set injections back to 0, go up and pick INJ2 from the channel to test, pick number of injections and put 3 again then tab out.

Everything test out good?

Be sure your ReqFuel number is setup for your engine and size injectors, don't change ReqFuel unless you change hardware on the engine that would require you to use the calculator again.

What is the trigger pattern the ECU is reading, 24 tooth and a 2 tooth? Was the 24 tooth wheel modified and teeth removed?

Next up is timing, if it's close it should start but be prepared to find your timing offset angle. If it doesn't start or try to sputter / start then unplug the injectors so you can safely find your timing angle. Be sure your distributor is installed correctly, the rotor still needs to line up with each cylinder inside the distributor cap when it's time to fire that cylinder. Ask a buddy to come over, makes this alot easier. Use a timing light to look at the crank while the engine is being cranked. The timing light does blink right? If not there's an ugly plan B. If you have a working timing light adjust the "tooth #1 angle" in the "basic --> trigger wheel" menu until your timing reaches the 10-20 area on the crank with the timing light. Plan B is **not** recommended, but increase trigger angle by like 20 or 30 at a time until it starts but be careful, you could easily detonate or kick back the engine doing this.

Lets take a break here, let me know the restults of your test mode before we get too far ahead.

[Eightysixer23]

For sure thanks Russ I will do this in the next couple of days. I'm Running ms2E 3.0...
Also I'm running the ford edis system and its on a trigger wheel with a cas on . Trigger wheel signal is based off the cas next to the trigger wheel that's mounted on the harmonic balancer. Ill go through test mode and see what happens. Ill let you know the results

[Russ]

Gotcha, EDIS will be a little different to set the timing. With no signal from the ECU EDIS should run at a locked 10 degrees so first check that. That angle is set by where the trigger wheel is mounted on the crank pulley vs. where the crank position sensor is mounted.

You'd set the timing offset for EDIS in the "basic setup --> ignition options" and it's called "trigger angle / offset". You should also be able to use the trigger wizard with EDIS under "tools --> trigger wizard".

[Eightysixer23]

Gotcha, EDIS will be a little different to set the timing. With no signal from the ECU EDIS should run at a locked 10 degrees so first check that. That angle is set by where the trigger wheel is mounted on the crank pulley vs. where the crank position sensor is mounted.

You'd set the timing offset for EDIS in the "basic setup --> ignition options" and it's called "trigger angle / offset". You should also be able to use the trigger wizard with EDIS under "tools --> trigger wizard".

I saw the trigger wizard option but I didn't want to mess with it. I think it's at 10-15 degrees can't remember but ill check that. When I las tried to crank it... I pulled the spark plug wires of the igniter and checked for andy spark action there and I saw nothing.

[Russ]

Now that I think about it, you can't output test mode spark with EDIS since MS isn't directly controling the coil, the signal has to go through the EDIS brain. If your EDIS isn't sparking at all then it's something wrong with the EDIS, the module, the wiring, the coil, power or grounding of any of the EDIS items, etc.. EDIS will run on its own at a fixed of 10 degrees with no interaction from an ECU.

[Eightysixer23]

I have power to Borge the edis module and the igniter itself . It could be that the module itself is out. I checked the wiring diagram and all the wires are in the correct place.

[Eightysixer23]

By igniter I mean where the spark plug wires connect to and by module I mean where the spark plugs connect to.

[Russ]

Most shops (Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys, Napa, etc..) around here can test the EDIS brain if you suspect it's bad. Call up before you drive over and see if they can test your EDIS brain real quick to rule that out. Double check with a meter that you have 12V, GND, continuity between the brain and the coil, etc..

If you need help with testing voltage, continuity, etc.. don't hesitate to ask. Do you have a multimeter?

LInk to the EDIS wiring if it helps:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/Ignition_Pixs/Edis_Wiring3.0.GIF

[Eightysixer23]

I checked for 12v on Borge the module and igniter and 12v exist in both and in the correct pin . Via the wiring diagram everything checks out. If you could assist on hot to check for a good ground and continuity.

[20valve1998]

I dont suppose anyone has any info that was lost from the old C4AG 20v Megasquirt Thread?

I basically have a Megasquirt DIYPNP that doesnt have a map on it, and was needing all of the basic setup info, as well as a start up map as well.

Setup:
20v Blacktop
Megasquirt w/sequential injection kit
1NZ COPS
Using Dizzy as CAS

Thanks for any and all the help!

I can sort it out for you, PM me

[20valve1998]

I dont suppose anyone has any info that was lost from the old C4AG 20v Megasquirt Thread?

I basically have a Megasquirt DIYPNP that doesnt have a map on it, and was needing all of the basic setup info, as well as a start up map as well.

Setup:
20v Blacktop
Megasquirt w/sequential injection kit
1NZ COPS
Using Dizzy as CAS

Thanks for any and all the help!

I can sort it out for you, PM me

Email me

[Eightysixer23]

Back from the dead !! Finally got her running guys!! Turns out the VR sensor was to far away from the trigger wheel thus no spark!

My next issue is that it's running really choppy and it won't rev up just kinda bogs out. Also puffing black smoke!
It's a silver top running megasquirt with ford edis system ! It's map sensored

[victorgarage]

heloo guys im newbie from Indonesia
i just installed ms1 v2.2 board into my blacktop on a ke70 corrolla dx RWD
it runs smooth and great
and im just gathering info for light mods....
please help me
im using this car for street use