So I see I started a thread in May, Its November and I can say that my GZE swap is 90% complete done 100% in my tiny garage



Its been a fantastic experience and have learned a lot, I do however have to solve some small problems.
I have decided to come back to these forums because the FB group is really useless and you get opinions of people that actually have no experience.
Anyway, my issues..

1) I have no boost, as soon as I push the accelerator down a bit to create some positive pressure the engine cuts out, so I thought it must have someting to do with the MAP sensor. I did some troubleshooting and found that the vacuum pipe had come off my ABV, could this cause that problem? I can only test tomorrow - but would be good to know what others thought. Where should the map sensor be, it should come after the SC to get the boost pressure? I have it currently connected to the pipe coming out the the bottom of the picture below, this is incorrect as it is after the TB but before the S/C?

2) low idle RPM. I can only imagine this has to do with te ISCV (will test as per BGB) - anything else I can look at ?

3) I have had to shut off a few pipes as I dont have P/S or AC, if you look at the pic below I have put a pipe between E & D



is that ok, or do need to shut them off individually? (Are those Idle-up or something related to the ISC - perhaps related to point 2?)

4) no RPM, where can I get the RPM signal to feed to my existing standard tacho? My 4age ecu had a tacho output. I'd have to get this from the ignitor? black wire?

Alive and kicking,moved the map sensor to the intake manifold and removed the T in the vacuum pipe bottom right of the pic.

Just need to solve low idle RPM and where to find RPM signal for existing tacho.

There is also low idle RPM when the engine is warm, so not just it is cold.

Does the idle change at all as it warms up?

Hey Yoshi

It is hard to tell because it almost stalls when cold so I have to open up the throttle a bit (engine does adjust when it almost stalls - not sure how this is done). I would say it adjust as it gets warmer, so perhaps there are 2 different issues?

I have found that if I keep the throttle at one position (also while driving) the engine still hunts(is that the word?) a bit. Did some reading, perhaps O2 sensor needs replacing?
How important is it where the O2 is situated on the exhaust pipe? I have it about 1m from the exhaust header, just behind the cross member.

Xarion

It may be a couple problems. It doesn't sound like the idle up systems are working. Remember the GZE has both the thermostatic IACV and an electric ISC. One or both may not be working properly. If both are stuck shut this could cause your low idle.
Or it could also be the BISS is screwed in too far, could be timing, could be over or under fueling, could be AFM, injectors or any number of other things.
The GZE doesn't listen to the O2 sensor for a good 5-10 seconds after startup so any issues before that shouldn't be related but after that could be.
The hunting is likely the TPS being out of adjustment. That's definitely a good place to start.
I would start digging through the diagnostics and troubleshooting in the BGB FI section. Honestly that will be as good a diagnostic path as anyone could suggest.

FYI -> the 4AGZE has a digital RPM output, so you should buy something like this: http://www.phoenix-tuning.com/servlet/t ... ACH/Detail

Hi Yoshi thanks for the recommendations, will start with the TPS adjustment, although I need to make sure that that IACV and ISC are working first?

Always forget about the BGB, looking through the FI section and have seen there good diagnostics there also pointing to ISC and IACV and RPM adjustment as I have no error codes.

Timing shouldn't have changed but will check, BGD recommends 10' BTDC, right? (standard setup ECU , cams and crank)

@onnaj thanks I had someone showed that to me too will check it out

Xarion

seems my low idle is fuel pressure related, can someone recommend what and where I can source a new fuel pump?

Have you tested the FPR? This is more likely than fuel pump.

Hi Yoshi, I thought of that but trying to fit an aftermarket FPR is difficult. Do I need to tap the hole where the FPR connects into the fuel rail ? Alternatively, if I have no vacuum pipe connected to the FPR is it bypassed ?

Another question, if water pump is working, I should see water movement when I open up the radiator cap right?

xarion wrote:Hi Yoshi, I thought of that but trying to fit an aftermarket FPR is difficult. Do I need to tap the hole where the FPR connects into the fuel rail ? Alternatively, if I have no vacuum pipe connected to the FPR is it bypassed ?

I don't see any reason why you would need an aftermarket FPR. You just need to make sure it's working properly.
If the hose coming off the FPR is not hooked up properly to the manifold it will not work properly.

xarion wrote:Another question, if water pump is working, I should see water movement when I open up the radiator cap right?

Once the thermostat opens it should be obvious. Otherwise it may not be.

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:I don't see any reason why you would need an aftermarket FPR. You just need to make sure it's working properly.
If the hose coming off the FPR is not hooked up properly to the manifold it will not work properly.

So the FPR isnt something that can go faulty? Vacuum line seems okay, it is still running through the VSV though, do VSV's go faulty ?
Not really sure what the point of that VSV is, especially since there is a cold start injector. I think I read somewhere that the VSV runs fuel at a slightly higher pressure when cold starting?
If an FRP vacuum is disconnected, is the FPR bypassed, ie it doesnt maintain any pressure?

Thanks again =]

xarion wrote:

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:I don't see any reason why you would need an aftermarket FPR. You just need to make sure it's working properly.
If the hose coming off the FPR is not hooked up properly to the manifold it will not work properly.

So the FPR isnt something that can go faulty? Vacuum line seems okay, it is still running through the VSV though, do VSV's go faulty ?
Not really sure what the point of that VSV is, especially since there is a cold start injector. I think I read somewhere that the VSV runs fuel at a slightly higher pressure when cold starting?
If an FRP vacuum is disconnected, is the FPR bypassed, ie it doesnt maintain any pressure?

Thanks again =]

Yes it can go bad but unless you need an adjustable FPR you would be better off just replacing the bad stock one with a good stock one.

The FPR needs the vacuum line to compensate for manifold pressure.
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=560009

I've bought the external FPR just because it had a guage (I cant seem to find just a a fuel pressure guage in this country!) So will connect tonight and see how the pressure is.
Would the standard 4age fuel pump be enough for the 4agze? If not, where would you recommend to look for a new pump, what should I specs should I be looking for?

So put in the guage, left engine off and just ran the fuel pump. Pressure fluctuated betwen 2.8 and 3bar without doing anything, is this a sign that something isnt working as it should?
Should blowing on the vacuum pipe of the FPR increase the fuel pressure?