Does anyone have the part numbers and the website that there was a stickied post before the revamped website?

Ghost

see if it is in the arcived threads.
http://web.archive.org/web/20120418130413/http://forums.club4ag.com/

The following is the parts required to build your very own full-flow aftermarket oil
cooler. Some of you may be saying though: "Well I have a GTS OEM oil cooler, do
I need this and why?"
From my own findings:

For daily driving or the occasional weekend warrior, I find that no oil cooler or just
running the stock GTS cooler will be just fine. Those of you that auto-cross or grip
drive may want to upgrade, but it may not be necessary depending on how long
your run sessions are. Same goes for you occasional drifters. I HIGHLY
recommend this upgrade to any of you that plan on doing 15+ min continuous run
sessions. The oil temps get up there. I blew my first 20v engine doing 45 minute
straight, non-stop drift sessions. Coolant temps were fine, but the engine oil just
couldn't hold up.

The OEM GTS unit is not a full-flow oil cooler. It has a pressure-sensitive check
valve that stops flow at low oil pressure/low rpm and allows flow at high oil
pressure/high rpm. The OEM GTS oil cooler only allows oil to flow through it as
engine rpm increases. At idle there is little flow if any. It does not work all the time.

This oil cooler setup that I am running is a MOCAL setup using a thermostatic
adapter plate. The sandwich plate contains a thermostat that restricts flow to the oil
cooler until the engine is up to the proper temperature, allowing the engine to warm
up properly and reducing premature wear on the engine.

Enough ranting.....

Stuffs you needs
-13 row MOCAL oil cooler w/ -8AN fittings (part number MOC-13208)
-MOCAL adapter plate (part number MOC-SP1T)
- -8AN straight swivel fittings, FOUR NEEDED (part number AER-FCM1013)
- 1/2" BSP to -8AN fittings, TWO NEEDED (part number MOC-2BM808A )
- 7 feet of stainless -8AN hose (part number AER-FBA0800)

Everything you need can be purchased through RacerPartWholesale--->
http://www.racerpartswholesale...lers2

WHEN ASSEMBLING THESE PARTS USE LIQUID GASKET SEALANT ON THE
THREADS DO NOT USE PIPE THREAD TAPE SH!T. I recommend going to your
local Honda dealer and picking up a tube of Hondabond. Hondabond is legit to use
on coolant, engine oil, trannies, rear ends, your girlfriend, leaky Arby's cups, etc.
It's amazing stuff. The tape style thread sealer is too tough on the aluminum
components. It will mess up the threads and/or crack the aluminum. Ask me how
I know


PROPER HOSE ROUTING IS IMPORTANT!!!! LOOK!!!!



Bottom fitting to top of cooler, top fitting to bottom of cooler.

Here are some old photos of my oil cooler setup. No. The baller foglight brackets
are not for sale and are long gone. Sorry. I have not tried this setup on a
powersteering equiped corolla yet. You should only have to change out two of the
four required straight swivel -8AN fitting for 90-degree -8AN swivel fittings instead.
I have not tried this though. Don't yell at me if it doesn't fit your PS/AC 4AGE.






PROPER OIL COOLER MOUNTING IS IMPORTANT AS WELL!!!!!!!
You need to mount the oil cooler in such a fashion that if a bubble were trapped
in it, the bubble could escape upwards.

Awesome! that's what I was looking for man. Your old stickied post disappeared lol

Ghost

I was looking at using a Mishimoto 10 row, I was initially concerned that it might be too small for the job (versus the 19 row) but if you're 20V only blew after a 45 minute session, if anything the 10 row sounds like it will be overkill. Sweetness.

Army Fork wrote:I was looking at using a Mishimoto 10 row, I was initially concerned that it might be too small for the job (versus the 19 row) but if you're 20V only blew after a 45 minute session, if anything the 10 row sounds like it will be overkill. Sweetness.

That Mocal one is a THICK 13 row though. I would really do like a 15-25 row. With the thermo adapter it's only going to help.

HASport AE86 - do all the components in your oil cooler list work with a 16v 4age as well?

Thanks

HASport AE86 wrote:

Army Fork wrote:I was looking at using a Mishimoto 10 row, I was initially concerned that it might be too small for the job (versus the 19 row) but if you're 20V only blew after a 45 minute session, if anything the 10 row sounds like it will be overkill. Sweetness.

That Mocal one is a THICK 13 row though. I would really do like a 15-25 row. With the thermo adapter it's only going to help.

The problem I have is that the Mishi comes with the full cooling kit, while the Mocal is a standalone. I may just buy the Mishi 19-row to be safe, although personally I don't think that there's enough volume flow to exceed a 2.5" thick 10 row Mishi. The Mocal is pretty sex though, must say.

Jeonsah wrote:HASport AE86 - do all the components in your oil cooler list work with a 16v 4age as well?

Thanks

they are the same engine, so yes..

Jeonsah wrote:HASport AE86 - do all the components in your oil cooler list work with a 16v 4age as well?

Thanks

It does work on the 16v engine, but if you have a 16v that came with an OEM oil cooler, like on the GTS corolla, you need to disassemble the OEM sandwich plate on the block. Remove the banjo fitting and install a bolt with crush washer in it's place. IIRC, its the same size as a Honda engine oil drain plug 14x1.5mm. There is one more bolt on the sandwich plate that when removed has the piston and spring assembly that is the pressure bypass for the OEM cooler. The spring and piston are how the OEM setup operates. Oil only flows to the cooler when engine speed creates enough oil pressure to overcome the spring, so the OEM cooler only works if you rev the engine, it doesn't flow all the time. Remove the piston and spring and re-install the bolt. You can then bolt on all these parts as well.

You can also remove the whole OEM sandwich plate too, but it puts the Mocal adapter really close to the block and the fittings coming off the adapter have a hard time clearing the block.

Is there another samwich plate that will just bolt on and do exactly the same but with no issues? Or do I have to run it one of the ways you suggested?

Hi, I'm interested in upgrading to HASport's setup for my 16v, but I am not sure if it will work on my PS+AC'd 86.

Any advice is very appreciated!

I've heard that installing an oil cooler on the 20V would give some throuble for the VVT system. Oil pressure can lower to much, they tell me, so much that it has just to little pressure to engage VVT.

Correct me if wrong. Cause when i'm wrong i might install my stock 7AFE oil cooler (which is already in there) on the 4AGE engine. I haven;t done this because of what i stated before. So i'm really curious.

YoShImUrA wrote:Hi, I'm interested in upgrading to HASport's setup for my 16v, but I am not sure if it will work on my PS+AC'd 86.

Any advice is very appreciated!

It should work if you get two 90 degree fittings and clock the sandwhich plate so that the fitting point towards the ground

onnaj wrote:I've heard that installing an oil cooler on the 20V would give some throuble for the VVT system. Oil pressure can lower to much, they tell me, so much that it has just to little pressure to engage VVT.

Correct me if wrong. Cause when i'm wrong i might install my stock 7AFE oil cooler (which is already in there) on the 4AGE engine. I haven;t done this because of what i stated before. So i'm really curious.

I've been running this setup for years. My current ride has a STACK oil gauge running off the oil port on the block where the OEM location is, always running about 55psi. I wanna say minium psi spec is like 20-30psi? I've never run into any problems what so ever running an oil cooler with a 20v. As far as I'm concerned, this is just a rumor from people reading too much and practicing very little. I'm religious about running oil coolers on all 4AG engines. They love to spin the rod bearing on #4 cylinder and knock knock on heavens door when they get too hot.

I learned the hard way and John at JSP ed-u-ma-cated me long ago. Oil temp and coolant temp are not related. Just because your coolant temp is normal doesn't mean the oil is chill too. I had a hard time understanding why I burned up an engine when my temp gauge was always 1/3 hot. Long sessions drifting at redline or long grip session runs really heat the oil up. I can watch my oil temp gauge rise after a few minutes of beating on it. It will usually hang out around 140-150F then jump up to about 210F and stay there.

Something I would add to this setup though, and I'm looking to add next, is a very small electric fan for the oil cooler. The cooler works great when the car is moving, but it takes a while to cool down if you're not moving staged in the starting grid. So dropping that 210F back down to 140F takes a couple minutes. Who has the time?!?! Track is hot bro lets go.

onnaj wrote:I've heard that installing an oil cooler on the 20V would give some throuble for the VVT system. Oil pressure can lower to much, they tell me, so much that it has just to little pressure to engage VVT.

Correct me if wrong. Cause when i'm wrong i might install my stock 7AFE oil cooler (which is already in there) on the 4AGE engine. I haven;t done this because of what i stated before. So i'm really curious.

Supposedly the 20V has a problem when using a pressure style oil cooler sandwich plate which Hasport already covered how to remove those components in a previous post. Sometimes the pressure drop will cause the VVT to not activate. I use a Greddy thermostatic sandwich plate. The thermostat in the sandwich plate opens at 140 degrees.

The Mocal one Hasport posted is also a great product, and does the same exact thing as the Greddy. The only reason I went with the Greddy unit is because I got one super cheap and I could easily run my oil temp and pressure gauges off of it while retaining everything for the stock gauge cluster.

Okay thanks for the replies.

I'm not going to drift and yes i will have some topspeed runs now and then, because i live just 5 km from the german border, but i'm not going to topspeed it for 15 minutes or longer.