20V Silvertop run-in strategy, and ARP head studs

[Army Fork]

So I'm about to completely rebuild a 20V ST engine, and I'm curious if anyone knows about Toyota specifications for the break-in schedule and the best strategy for seating piston rings.

I'm also dropping in ARP hardware to hold the whole assembly together, and I'm curious if anyone has experience with ARP, and if so will I have problems ensuring proper torqueing and such? (I know that it shouldn't make a difference, but we're talking seriously high-grade hardware versus the one-shot Toyota bolts.)

[allencr]

...high-grade hardware versus the one-shot Toyota bolts.)

The same torque is the same torque, unless you're going to lower grade, so there swill be zero difference.
There are NO one-shot Toyota head bolts on the 4A engines.

[HASport AE86]

So I'm about to completely rebuild a 20V ST engine, and I'm curious if anyone knows about Toyota specifications for the break-in schedule and the best strategy for seating piston rings.

I'm also dropping in ARP hardware to hold the whole assembly together, and I'm curious if anyone has experience with ARP, and if so will I have problems ensuring proper torqueing and such? (I know that it shouldn't make a difference, but we're talking seriously high-grade hardware versus the one-shot Toyota bolts.)

The piston rings you run should specify what oil to use, usually straight 30w or staight 40w. Torco oils makes a break in oil that I will be trying for the first time with my current engine build. Run it for 30+minutes or longer and you're good to go. There is always a debat on how to "properly" break an engine in. Some go hard and fast, some go nice and slow. I've always done a slow, factory style break in.


Here is per the factory Honda S2000 owners manual:
Break-in Period:
Help assure your vehicle’s future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration. Do not exceed 5,500
rpm for the first 600 miles (1,000
km) of operation.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
Avoid hard braking for the first
200 miles (300 km).
Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.

As for the ARP bolts, I have used the ARP hardware before. Just make sure you use the supplied lubricant on the treads to ensure proper torque down. If you hear any creaking sounds, start over and apply more lube. The OEM Toyota bolts are not all one-time use bolts. They provide you with a guide to measure bolt stretch. If the OEM bolt is stretched beyond limit, they have you replace it with a new one. If the bolt is within spec, you can re-use the bolt.

[oldeskewltoy]

Use break in oil - I prefer(have used) Joe Gibbs BR30




And for break-in procedure.... either pretty much works......
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php

[dr.occa]

I use this motorcycle engine builder's method (I'm quoting him):

Use the oil you intend to use (EXCEPT NO SYNTHETIC FOR BREAK IN). Then change the oil after the first 20 miles.

"On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process."

[dr.occa]

From his FAQ page regarding break-in:

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???

A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!

A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???

A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.

Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???

A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.
Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.

Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!


On a personal note, I'd even suggest WPC treating your rod bearings (crank facing side), top and bottom rings and wrist pins.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I use the same method as dr.occa

[Army Fork]

Guess I was misinformed on the head studs, sucks since I just ordered the ARP's. I'm not all that choked though, I was looking for an excuse to put some strong hardware in anyways, the engine's eventually going forced induction so getting the hardware now won't hurt. Even grabbed some ARP main and flywheel bolts.

Thanks guys for all the tips and help, super helpful. Once I have the car running and rolling in april I'll post some pics and progress, the build is pretty intense so it's going to be awhile before it's on the road. Not like it matters with this Alberta snow.