Both the cranks I have for my 16V 4AGE have noticeable wear grooves where the rear crank oil seal runs resulting in a pretty bad oil leak. I'll be pulling the engine for a refresh before next race season I can see three options to solve this:
1) Metal spray the worn area and have it re-ground to correct diameter. Expensive and maybe overkill.
2) Saver sleeve. Means the seal runs on a slightly bigger diameter than it is designed for and could wear quickly.
3) Move the seal carrier back maybe 1.5mm so it runs on an unworn part of the crank. Would need to make up a metal spacer the same rough outline as the seal carrier.
I'm favouring #3 at present. Anyone else have any suggestions or experience solving this?
Thanks

erictharg wrote:3) Move the seal carrier back maybe 1.5mm so it runs on an unworn part of the crank. Would need to make up a metal spacer the same rough outline as the seal carrier.
I'm favouring #3 at present. Anyone else have any suggestions or experience solving this?
Thanks

Ding, ding, ding....... right answer........ You don't have to move it that far (1.5mm), just move it so the seal doesn't ride in the same groove. Even setting the seal slightly deeper, or shallower should work

I'd have to look into this, but instead of making a spacer see if the seal will seat deeper into the holder plate. On my 22R I can push the seal past flush to about a 2mm depth. Another option would be to cut a little off the seal housing lip so it will recess into the seal boss. I wouldn't go less than flush with the seal to the boss body(tried that), it tends to want to creep out. Another option would be to mill the seal bore deeper in the holder/boss.

I have never personally examined the seal retainer. But I read on this forum where
someone knocked the seal too far in, and looking at this pic, there is no lip on the
retainer to stop the seal going deeper than flush...



So I would say that, providing the boss on the end of the crank is cylindrical, it
should be possible to knock the seal a couple of millimetres further in from flush
to get it sitting on a fresh section of the crank. The strongest part of the seal
is at the flat face, and the most flexible part is at the other end. Therefore if the
seal does poke out the end of the retainer (probably won't) it is not a problem.

Just eyeball it before assembly to make sure this all makes sense

Cheers... jondee86

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds as if turning up a mandrel that will allow me to press the seal in an extra couple of mm whilst keeping it square will the just the job.