I swapped bluetop for bluetop now engine wont stay running?

[insane]

Hey guys. I hope you can help me figure this out.

I have a 1985 gt-sr5 that I built a few years ago and the engine recently has really low compression but ran so I put in a 1986 mr2 4age with good compression. I then reconnected all electrical lines exactly as they were.

I have a FSM so I used the proper procedure to insert the dizzy and the engine will fire right up but I have yet to set the timing.

I have no vacuum lines hooked up(what should be plugged off is plugged off) except for the brake booster and the TVIS plate.

Also I have the IAC blocked off and bypassed So I have to hold the engine at 2000rpms until it warms up.

The old engine ran with this setup So I cant see why the new one wouldn't.

This is what the replacement engine does when I start it: fires right up, check engine light turns off, sounds great, smooth and quick when you rev it(until it dies), after about 15 seconds it slowly(a period of 4-5 seconds) bogs out and dies, the harder I rev it the faster it will die So I'm thinking the issue is fuel related.

I took two days to finish the swap and the fuel lines were open for this amount of time, I was damn near empty when I began the swap, Maybe enough gas had evaporated to cause this issue, or do you think the fuel pressure is to low because of a bad pump, but the pump ran the other engine like two days ago so I don't know.

I don't have any way to test the fuel pressure, So if any one has any comments or suggestions or ideas pleas feel free to share, it will be greatly appreciated.

I wont be able to get to a gas station for about 3 hours, or I would just try putting more gas in it.

Edit: Well I put more fuel in it and no change. So I pulled the air filter and pushed the flapper thing inside the AFM while the key was in the on position and no fuel pump noise. So I guess tomorrow I will pull the fuel pump out of the wrecked mr2 I have and stick it in the corolla.

[jondee86]

Pull the rubber return hose off the tail of the FPR. Find another piece of hose and
fix one end of it to the tail of the FPR and put the other end in a glass bottle. Turn
the key ON and then have someone push the flap inside the AFM open by hand (you
need the intake ducting/filter off to do this. The fuel pump should run... check to
see that there is a good jet of fuel going into the bottle. Let it run for a a few
seconds to make sure the flow does not fade away.

Turn key OFF and connect the return hose... tip the fuel back into the tank...
NO SMOKING and have an extinguisher handy just in case.

Cheers... jondee86

[insane]

Hello jondee86.
The only time fuel comes out of the return line is when I first crank the engine a burst of fuel lasting for about one second comes out.

Also I tried the AFM flap trick and it does not activate my fuel pump.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Test the AFM per the FSM.
Try the fuel pump bypass in the diagnostic port. If that causes the fuel pump to run then the problem is in the AFM or interlock circuit.
If you can't get the pump to run with it jumped then start chasing through the fuel pump and COR circuits.

[insane]

Hello yoshimitsuspeed.

I believe the afm is good because I have 2 known working afm's and the one from the mr2 but the problem is there with all of them.

I couldn't find the fuel pump bypass so I just wired the fuel pump to the battery and it works, the engine will stay running now but of course I cant leave it like this.

And my buddy who was watching the engine when I first fired it up the other day, told me only this morning that he saw a little smoke coming from near the engine bay fuse block... So it looks like I have a fried wire/s somewhere.

Edit: Man I'm getting close now, the brown wire on the end of the AFM connecter is supposed to be grounded to the left side of the block according to the fsm, but I have never had any wires ground to the left side of the block? And for some reason that wire is not grounded anywhere,so once I figure out what is going on with that I should be good to go.

[jondee86]

The squirt of fuel is due to the COR closing momentarily when you are cranking. The
flap in the AFM has to open and make a ground to keep the COR closed when you stop
cranking. If the AFM does not make a ground when the flap opens, the fuel pump will
not run. Most likely you have a bad ground from the AFM.



Stole this from a thread that stole it from a thread on club4AG Thread says that
the wire with the dirty yellow plug is the ground wire... make sure the ground is good.

Cheers... jondee86

[insane]

Hello again jondee86.

Is that ground near the battery by any chance?
I cant really tell from that pic but I just searched around until I found some random black wire with a frayed end and it turned out to be the ground for the afm. Car is running now.

Thanks for your help guys, I mean it

[ga_goosh]

the green plug that is in the left side of the pic is the distributor plug so yes that will be the left side of the engine bay near the frame rail