Anyways, what thoughts do you guys have about using a cheaper, off-brand head gasket with ARP head studs? Will it hold up better with ARP hardware? I already have the head studs. I had bought a full gasket set (ITM brand) and it included a graphite head gasket. Of course the head & block will be checked and skimmed if necessary. Here's the ITM brand head gasket:
![Image](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/garbageboxlove/car_88-toyota_all-trac/4a-ge_build/4a-ge_itm_head-gasket_top.jpg~original)
![Image](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/garbageboxlove/car_88-toyota_all-trac/4a-ge_build/4a-ge_itm_head-gasket_btm.jpg~original)
Pistons... I would like to run stock 10.3:1 pistons but don't want to buy new OEM units with rings for $400+. I just don't have the desire to spend that much when I could get used (which didn't work out for me), or a set of new cast pistons that I see on ebay. Would those non-OEM cast pistons be OK, especially if I got the tops coated? Anyone know if they come with rings & pins?
FWIW, I'm using an early bluetop crank, those custom 40/20 rods that Orion Engineered made, Fidanza flywheel, stock Geo Prizm GSi smallport head, and a '97 4A-FE block (because of the notch on the block & pan to clear the transfer case). I figure if anything, this engine could be rebuilt again with better pistons etc and thrown into an AW11 MR2 (that I hope to buy someday).