AE86 TopShelf build

[TopshelfJason]

I had another account on here but I've forgotten my login info, either way it was a just a thread about how I was having trouble getting my 16v running. Jump forward many months and I've given up on the 16v(it's forsale btw). But I'll post some of my progress here, it will be a lot of explaining and not so many pictures because I forgot to take them.

Step one acquired a 86.


Step two remain in a constant state of being broke by spending every penny you earn on car parts.

Not pictured is the megasquirt, fortune auto coilovers, sq engineering 100mm velocity stacks, header, and clutch/9lb flywheel.

Step three put it all on the car. I'm still working on this but I'll post updates when I have time.

Step four bodywork. I haven't even touched this because I'm still gathering funds to get all the problem areas fixed and whole car painted the team color.

And that's all for now. Still working on wiring right now since when I bought the megasquirt I bought a diypnp for the 16v and now I have to graft the cut 20v harness into a spare 16v ecu plug I yanked off a junkyard car. Need to figure out what under dash harness wires go into the ecu and I should be ready to draw up a diagram and being wiring.


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[boosted86]

Looking forward to more!
Did you go with oem rear or true coil on the fortunes?
Been leaning towards those over bc and pbm

[TopshelfJason]

Oem rear, true coil rear wasn't done when I ordered them. Oem rear has enough adjustment to get the proper ride height I wanted so it was just the natural choice.


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[marin86]

I called fortune and they told me true rear coils were discontinued because of problems with the prototype

[TopshelfJason]

Lame, everyone who has them posted for sale need to update the websites then. Here's a little teaser shot [img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/01/134f5b9f9ef2532a1bd60f8314a99c30.jpg[/img]


While the head and valves were being cleaned we found pitting on #1 intake valves from rust. So I'll need to order new valves for that cylinder. Ecu is finally assembled and I'll pick that up after vacation, then we'll start smoothing the ports and polishing the combustion chamber and get the head ready to be shaved. I'm looking to raise the compression and squeeze as much power out of the stock setup as possible.


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[Deuce Cam]

Looks good, nice start.

Let us know how the fortune auto install goes. Some dude on another forum said part of the body needed to be trimmed, specifically the rear bump stop mounts, to fit their threaded perch/sleeve for the spring.

[TopshelfJason]

Quick question I'll post here because I don't want to clutter up other threads. The rust on the rear passenger side quarter panel behind the door, does anyone make replacement sheet metal for that that I can weld in?


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[milchmann]

Quick question I'll post here because I don't want to clutter up other threads. The rust on the rear passenger side quarter panel behind the door, does anyone make replacement sheet metal for that that I can weld in?

No, you will have to find someone that is parting out a car, a junkyard that still has one, or cut yours off and hammer it out. From the looks of the cancer toward the bottom of the arch you are probably going to have some nasty surprises inside there as well. If that was my car I would cut that panel off carefully with the intention of reusing it, and find out what the full extent of the damage was before I started trying to source panels. You might need more than you are initially expecting.

If you cut along the side of the B-Pillar/ Door Seal (an inch or more in from the corner) instead of the corner it will be much easier to put back into shape as well as weld back in later.

Good luck.

[TopshelfJason]

I'm not doing body work, I'm paying a guy who does the best work ive ever seen to do it. But if the panel is too far gone and needs to be replaced i needed to know where to start looking. Thanks for the help.


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[Lowtekk]

Quick question I'll post here because I don't want to clutter up other threads. The rust on the rear passenger side quarter panel behind the door, does anyone make replacement sheet metal for that that I can weld in?

http://alfaparts.net/toycor.htm

They make replacement metal rear quarter panels. I've never heard of anyone using them, but it might be a viable option. Good luck!

[milchmann]

Has the panel you need -> viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17045

[TopshelfJason]

The car ran for the first time tonight. Got my diypnp megasquirt from the builder tonight, loaded firmware(wrong one), then loaded the msq file. After some finagling with the settings due to the wrong initial firmware we got the car to fire and run better than it's ever run. Now I need to put a new coolant sensor in and wire that up, put the headers in with the wideband and wire that in, make a temporary intake with the iat sensor in it, run exhaust from the header back. A few other mechanical things and I'll take it for the first drive.

Also side note if anyone has a msq file they'd like to share link it to me.


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[TopshelfJason]

Got the fortune auto coil overs installed on my AE86 today. The installation went about how you would expect it to go, kind of like the 5 stages of grief, denial, anger, bargaining, depression, and finally acceptance. I learned a lot of things as well like the top hats are side specific for the front as well as the spindles, and that it doesn't help when you get them with the spindles on the wrong sides. After a short phone call I got that sorted out. Proceeding to the rear I have one tip, if you don't have adjustable rear links I would not drive the car with it lowered. The pinion angle needs to be adjusted so the rear mounting points for the shocks are level and not applying tension to the shock. It does have a small amount of rubber in the lower mount of the coilover but it's still a good idea to have everything level. I will be taking measurements and fabricating my own soon along with traction brackets. The next thing that has to be addressed it the spring perch cup in the rear. After you remove the bumpstop from the mount you'll find the fitment and oem hardware barely reach if that. I solved this problem by adding a washer to the inside of the cup along with longer hardware and a new lockwasher.
[img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/59d24610fa6238f8ecceb391fcb6add5.jpg[/img][img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/ec2ff36b0d07ed2942d8f7fd169f5f8e.jpg[/img][img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/8c76bc73a3a44de7c1b82fbdbf1ac90b.jpg[/img][img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/54e3c289ebdf3e97f857d9fb263138af.jpg[/img][img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/c00792b85946212ced1fda3b75018d2e.jpg[/img][img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/054a48a752288a2f062eb69d212d863c.jpg[/img]

You'll be able to go low enough with that the way it is. I haven't driven it but the clearance between the bottom of the perch cup and top of the lower spring mount is around two inches, if I find it interferes I'll update this with first impressions and and issues I run into. The fronts are pretty straight forward, while you're in there clean out the hubs and repack them with good quality grease. It may be extra time and work but it's worth it. Camber adjustment is set at the second notch from the bottom, shocks are at factory spec 5 clicks from full soft. I'll post another update later after I get the shocks set and front end aligned. [img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/b228b9fc34085df3d82ce1caa0ed261e.jpg[/img]

I'll post pictures of the car after its all set height and setting wise. Now I'm working on getting the wideband wired up for the megasquirt. I also need to find the wires for the rear temp sensor on the back of the engine. Mine are mia right now so debating on if I should just run wires directly to the megasquirt or try to find the wires on the harness. The car is having ignition issues so next week I'll be buying nz1 coils and replacing the stock system. A lot to go and I'm no where near done.


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[Deuce Cam]

Sweet, so no cutting to install the rear perch? Does the flange at the very top of the threaded piece that's bolted to the bump stop mount sit flush against the body like the original spring would?

You probably can still retain the stock bump stop if trimmed as shown below if you wanted to, but I'm not sure how much bump travel you would be left with.

[TopshelfJason]

I had to take a hammer to that area to allow the cup to sit further up and flush, you also have to do this if you plan on adjusting the spring perch to make the car go as low in the rear as they will allow. Otherwise you'll have to leave the perch 1/2-3/4 of a inch away from the top of the cup, which don't get me wrong is tucking tire on 14s, but if you're going for anything lower than that you'll need to use a hammer and bar.


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[TopshelfJason]

So after wiring in the 1nz cops the car works a little better, the misfire under load disappeared. But I'm not out of the woods yet, it's running really lean/rough and won't idle to save its own life. I initially used the base map diy auto tune has available but it's garbage. I ended up importing my friends fuel table from his Miata over, it runs better and barely idles, I'll have to import his ve table too. We are essentially using the exact same ignition system so it shouldn't be a problem. The motor is a 3rib large port completely stock, the stock dizzy has be left along with most of the ignition system, nz1 coils wired to ignition power and grounded to the firewall, stock tan injectors, innovative wideband. I'm officially on crunch time with the deadline on the 20th to get the car driving.


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[BattleGarage_RS]

Hi Jason, not sure who you are in real life but we were just informed about this fitment issue on the OEM style fortune auto coils. If you purchased these from us, email me and we will send out a spacer that should fix the fitment issue with the perch!

Cheers,

Grant