when i step on the clutch pedal and push in it feels very light and soft does that mean it's time for a new clutch?
I just recently installed new clutch master cylinder and bleed the clutch line
Any advice is appreciated, thanks
time for a new clutch?
Re: time for a new clutch?
Has it been like this since right after you replaced the master and bleed the line, or has the pedal got softer over time?
My guess is you're clutch slave cylinder is probably going out assuming the line was bleed properly. It's best to change the clutch master and slave at the same time since one will often go bad after replacing the other. It also won't hurt to replace the old rubber clutch soft line with a new ss line. http://www.techna-fit.com/ sells them for $25.
My guess is you're clutch slave cylinder is probably going out assuming the line was bleed properly. It's best to change the clutch master and slave at the same time since one will often go bad after replacing the other. It also won't hurt to replace the old rubber clutch soft line with a new ss line. http://www.techna-fit.com/ sells them for $25.
Re: time for a new clutch?
Deuce Cam wrote:Has it been like this since right after you replaced the master and bleed the line, or has the pedal got softer over time?
My guess is you're clutch slave cylinder is probably going out assuming the line was bleed properly. It's best to change the clutch master and slave at the same time since one will often go bad after replacing the other. It also won't hurt to replace the old rubber clutch soft line with a new ss line. http://www.techna-fit.com/ sells them for $25.
It has been soft and my mechanic recommended new master and line bleed but after that it didnt help nor worsen the softness....
- SidewaysGts
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Re: time for a new clutch?
Did you sort out this issue or are you still looking for help?
Re: time for a new clutch?
SidewaysGts wrote:Did you sort out this issue or are you still looking for help?
i m still looking for inputs
Thanks
- gotzoom?
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Re: time for a new clutch?
If you clutch needs replacement, it will slip. If you get the car up to around 4000rpm in 1st or 2nd gear and suddenly stand on the gas, the rpms should rise with the speed of the car. If the revs suddenly pop to redline without the car accelerating, you need a clutch. The clutch disk pressure comes from springs in the pressure plate. It is not related to the pedal or hydraulic components.
Sounds like you have air in the lines to me. It's also possible that the pedal isn't adjusted properly. If you have a lot of free pedal play before you feel pressure, that should be easy to adjust out.
Sounds like you have air in the lines to me. It's also possible that the pedal isn't adjusted properly. If you have a lot of free pedal play before you feel pressure, that should be easy to adjust out.
- SidewaysGts
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Re: time for a new clutch?
What this gent' before me said.
If youre having pedal issues, its quite likely youre having hydraulic issues. Bad slave, air in the lines- or even a faulty master. I know youve just swaped it- But its not unhread of. Ive personally had dead out of the box hydraulics. Rather annoying as i kept scratching my head going " no no no, it CANT be that, its BRAND new!". Took awhile to figure out :\
If youre having pedal issues, its quite likely youre having hydraulic issues. Bad slave, air in the lines- or even a faulty master. I know youve just swaped it- But its not unhread of. Ive personally had dead out of the box hydraulics. Rather annoying as i kept scratching my head going " no no no, it CANT be that, its BRAND new!". Took awhile to figure out :\
Re: time for a new clutch?
gotzoom? wrote:If you clutch needs replacement, it will slip. If you get the car up to around 4000rpm in 1st or 2nd gear and suddenly stand on the gas, the rpms should rise with the speed of the car. If the revs suddenly pop to redline without the car accelerating, you need a clutch. The clutch disk pressure comes from springs in the pressure plate. It is not related to the pedal or hydraulic components.
Sounds like you have air in the lines to me. It's also possible that the pedal isn't adjusted properly. If you have a lot of free pedal play before you feel pressure, that should be easy to adjust out.
Thanks. Will def look into that and keep you gents posted
Re: time for a new clutch?
SidewaysGts wrote:What this gent' before me said.
If youre having pedal issues, its quite likely youre having hydraulic issues. Bad slave, air in the lines- or even a faulty master. I know youve just swaped it- But its not unhread of. Ive personally had dead out of the box hydraulics. Rather annoying as i kept scratching my head going " no no no, it CANT be that, its BRAND new!". Took awhile to figure out :\
Thanks for the inputs.
So the clutch pedal hydraulic is a combination of slave, master and the line, right?
sorry I m still trying to learn.
Thanks
- gotzoom?
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Re: time for a new clutch?
You might want to search for a copy of the service manual. There are pdf copies you can find online. That will explain how the parts fit together and what the factory procedures are.
Starting from the clutch pedal, here is a list of the major components of the system:
1. clutch pedal
2. master cylinder (with adjustment linkage)
3. clutch hardline
4. clutch softline
5. slave cylinder
6. clutch fork
7. bearing sleeve
8. throwout bearing
My money is on air in the line. In order to properly bleed the line, you will need a buddy to step down on the pedal while you open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. When the pedal gets about 3/4 depressed, have your buddy let you know so you can close the bleed valve. Have him/her pump the pedal a few times and repeat that bleed procedure until the pedal feels firm. Watch the reservoir level. If it gets too low, air will be sucked in to the line and you start all over. If the pedal still doesn't feel right, I'd start looking at items #2, 4 and 5 as possible culprits.
Starting from the clutch pedal, here is a list of the major components of the system:
1. clutch pedal
2. master cylinder (with adjustment linkage)
3. clutch hardline
4. clutch softline
5. slave cylinder
6. clutch fork
7. bearing sleeve
8. throwout bearing
My money is on air in the line. In order to properly bleed the line, you will need a buddy to step down on the pedal while you open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. When the pedal gets about 3/4 depressed, have your buddy let you know so you can close the bleed valve. Have him/her pump the pedal a few times and repeat that bleed procedure until the pedal feels firm. Watch the reservoir level. If it gets too low, air will be sucked in to the line and you start all over. If the pedal still doesn't feel right, I'd start looking at items #2, 4 and 5 as possible culprits.
Re: time for a new clutch?
gotzoom? wrote:You might want to search for a copy of the service manual. There are pdf copies you can find online. That will explain how the parts fit together and what the factory procedures are.
Starting from the clutch pedal, here is a list of the major components of the system:
1. clutch pedal
2. master cylinder (with adjustment linkage)
3. clutch hardline
4. clutch softline
5. slave cylinder
6. clutch fork
7. bearing sleeve
8. throwout bearing
My money is on air in the line. In order to properly bleed the line, you will need a buddy to step down on the pedal while you open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. When the pedal gets about 3/4 depressed, have your buddy let you know so you can close the bleed valve. Have him/her pump the pedal a few times and repeat that bleed procedure until the pedal feels firm. Watch the reservoir level. If it gets too low, air will be sucked in to the line and you start all over. If the pedal still doesn't feel right, I'd start looking at items #2, 4 and 5 as possible culprits.
Thank you sir
I will keep you posted on the outcome