Sorry guys, I've checked here without much luck as well as googled through the other forums as well.
Having issues getting the project car going. Was running fine after initial work (pump, injectors, coil, cap/rotor, plugs, broken wiring at dist.) and put it in the garage after having a kid, figuring i wouldn't touch it for a bit. Found some time and was going to move it to get better access to what i needed and nada. Moved it, parked it, now nothing.
Found i wasn't getting spark, everything i read pointed to wiring, so a few days of tugging and checking with the meter and found the single wire going up to the fused link at the battery had dried and broken off...SWEET. couple tests and i now have spark, at the coil and checked every wire just to be sure. Obviously, since i posting, that didn't solve my issue.
I have power running through a switch panel, bypassing the ignition since i didn't get a key with the car and it will be a track toy anyhow. The setup worked fine the last 6 months, so i don't see any issues there, but with everything on and hearing fuel pump through the system, i get no fuel into the engine. dropped a bit in and fired it up, turned over and a huge backfire that woke up my kid and ended the days tinkering.
So, fuses good for inj system (checked engine and kick panel). Battery always on tender and looks good. Grounds all checked out with meter, including injector ground on manifold. both terminals on injector plug the same with power on or off, which seemed weird, but didn't know where to go next? COR matter here? it's bypassed for fuel pump, but not sure it's role in controlling injection possibly?
This is a project i haven't had a lot of time for as of late, so i lose rhythm and forgot what made sense when i was working on it a lot 12 months ago. Car is currently covered outside while i try to epoxy my garage, but i should have time next week to take a look at and try any suggestions anyone has.
'85 RHD
Another fuel question thread
Re: Another fuel question thread
Still in the same situation bump...
Since the last post I got a dizzy and igniter from Japan, no change.
Pulled cold start injector and no fuel while cranking. Read that the brass washers at the rail could impede flow, so will check that this week, but I can feel pressure on both side of the rail, so not thinking that's the issue.
Is COR relay still a potential issue if pump power is bypassed from it? Didn't seem like any injector signals/reference had to go through that way first, but just a thought as i haven't tested it yet.
Tested wires from igniter and dizzy back to ecu in case there was a break somewhere, but continuity across all wires there. I don't have anyone with me (over 18mo old) usually, but is there an easy way to check injectors during cranking for signal? Does it switch too fast to see on a voltmeter?
Checked compression last night, sitting at just under 160 on #1 & 4, about 155 on #2 & 3. bit low perhaps, but hasn't been run in about a year now, so should be fine once at operating temps i'd imagine.
I'm re-soldering some wiring on the harness at the dizzy plug that looked ehhh. Last piece I know needs to be replaced is the noise condenser (?) that mounts by the coil with the blue plug....one wire dangling, but don't see that leading to a no fuel issue.
Any help would be great obviously
Since the last post I got a dizzy and igniter from Japan, no change.
Pulled cold start injector and no fuel while cranking. Read that the brass washers at the rail could impede flow, so will check that this week, but I can feel pressure on both side of the rail, so not thinking that's the issue.
Is COR relay still a potential issue if pump power is bypassed from it? Didn't seem like any injector signals/reference had to go through that way first, but just a thought as i haven't tested it yet.
Tested wires from igniter and dizzy back to ecu in case there was a break somewhere, but continuity across all wires there. I don't have anyone with me (over 18mo old) usually, but is there an easy way to check injectors during cranking for signal? Does it switch too fast to see on a voltmeter?
Checked compression last night, sitting at just under 160 on #1 & 4, about 155 on #2 & 3. bit low perhaps, but hasn't been run in about a year now, so should be fine once at operating temps i'd imagine.
I'm re-soldering some wiring on the harness at the dizzy plug that looked ehhh. Last piece I know needs to be replaced is the noise condenser (?) that mounts by the coil with the blue plug....one wire dangling, but don't see that leading to a no fuel issue.
Any help would be great obviously
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MisterJerk
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Re: Another fuel question thread
check to see if you have voltage at the injectors/cold start injectors when you try to crank it. Not to keen on the sketchy wiring with ignition bypassed and what not.
Last time my car sat for awhile, the injectors were clogged due to the fuel separating. Which was a pain in the ... since i refused to send them out to be cleaned and no money to buy new. used an old injector connector i had from when i replaced the broken clips, wired to a switch,fuse, battery. Clicked it on to open the injector and sprayed carb cleaner through. Not the recommended way, but my backyard mechanic-fu worked for me.
Last time my car sat for awhile, the injectors were clogged due to the fuel separating. Which was a pain in the ... since i refused to send them out to be cleaned and no money to buy new. used an old injector connector i had from when i replaced the broken clips, wired to a switch,fuse, battery. Clicked it on to open the injector and sprayed carb cleaner through. Not the recommended way, but my backyard mechanic-fu worked for me.
RTFM!!!!!!!!!!! --> http://www.aeu86.org/technical/
Re: Another fuel question thread
The injectors are all knew, but it did sit for a year, so who knows. Some of the gas in the system is probably 3-4 years old given i haven't really done more than idle and a few trips around the block. When checking voltage at the clip, am I look for pin to pin, or ground to either pin? With how fast is switches on/off, will I see anything on the voltmeter, or mainly looking for any change?
The wiring was done while the car worked, and nothing changed on that side prior to covering it up for a year. I still need to check the COR relay, but don't see that being an issue for injectors.
thanks for at least something to check
The wiring was done while the car worked, and nothing changed on that side prior to covering it up for a year. I still need to check the COR relay, but don't see that being an issue for injectors.
thanks for at least something to check
Re: Another fuel question thread
The COR is essentially the fuel pump relay. In standard configuration it is energised
when the engine is cranking, or when the flap in the AFM is open. If you have bypassed
the COR it should not affect anything else.
With the ignition ON you should have 12V at the coil and igniter, 12V at the ECU, and
12V at the injector clips (not cold start injector). When you test the injector clips, you
are looking for 12V to ground, and if you test a single clip while the other clips are on
the injectors, you should find 12V on both pins (the ECU side pins are commoned up).
Loosen the cold start injector and take it out of the manifold with fuel and clip still
connected. Put the end into some kind of container or bottle, turn the ignition ON and
crank the engine. Fuel should squirt into your container. NO SMOKING. Confirms that
you have fuel pressure in the rail, and that your cold start circuit is working
Because injectors pulse quickly (only a few mulliseconds) most meters or bulb type
test lights cannot react fast enough to check if the injector is being pulsed. You need
a so called "Noid Light" which is basically an LED and a resistor. LED's are pretty much
instant on, so make a useful tool for testing injectors. Google will tell you how to make
your own, or you can buy them ready made.
Cheers... jondee86
when the engine is cranking, or when the flap in the AFM is open. If you have bypassed
the COR it should not affect anything else.
With the ignition ON you should have 12V at the coil and igniter, 12V at the ECU, and
12V at the injector clips (not cold start injector). When you test the injector clips, you
are looking for 12V to ground, and if you test a single clip while the other clips are on
the injectors, you should find 12V on both pins (the ECU side pins are commoned up).
Loosen the cold start injector and take it out of the manifold with fuel and clip still
connected. Put the end into some kind of container or bottle, turn the ignition ON and
crank the engine. Fuel should squirt into your container. NO SMOKING. Confirms that
you have fuel pressure in the rail, and that your cold start circuit is working
Because injectors pulse quickly (only a few mulliseconds) most meters or bulb type
test lights cannot react fast enough to check if the injector is being pulsed. You need
a so called "Noid Light" which is basically an LED and a resistor. LED's are pretty much
instant on, so make a useful tool for testing injectors. Google will tell you how to make
your own, or you can buy them ready made.
Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.
Re: Another fuel question thread
I already pulled the Cold Start injector as indicated and nothing came out when cranking. As soon as I cracked the banjo fuel sprayed all over though, so pressure is in the line for sure.
I did check the injectors, though one at a time while other 3 were connect if i remember correctly, and found 12v across all 8 pins to ground. Looking at the diagram here for the MAP ECU, I had 12v at the correct pins, but that is checking the clip/wire, not the actual ECU. CEL is standard, not showing any codes currently either which confuses me even more.
I'll check my voltmeter and see if i can set the peak/hold on voltage and see what i get from the injector harness. and to be sure, each pin will ground out interdependently, so i would check both pins while cranking, so crank 8 times to check all are working, correct. I'll work on the noid light if need be depending on how mine works out.
Again, thanks for the help, don't have a lot of time to play with it currently, so having something to look at rather than the normal stare at and wiggle everything i've been doing lately.
I did check the injectors, though one at a time while other 3 were connect if i remember correctly, and found 12v across all 8 pins to ground. Looking at the diagram here for the MAP ECU, I had 12v at the correct pins, but that is checking the clip/wire, not the actual ECU. CEL is standard, not showing any codes currently either which confuses me even more.
I'll check my voltmeter and see if i can set the peak/hold on voltage and see what i get from the injector harness. and to be sure, each pin will ground out interdependently, so i would check both pins while cranking, so crank 8 times to check all are working, correct. I'll work on the noid light if need be depending on how mine works out.
Again, thanks for the help, don't have a lot of time to play with it currently, so having something to look at rather than the normal stare at and wiggle everything i've been doing lately.
Re: Another fuel question thread
Injectors are probably batch fired, or at best they will be fired in pairs. So you
only need to test #1 and #3. They are fired by the ECU pulling the injectors to
ground. Therefore you will have 12V on the injectors dropping to a value near
zero on the ECU side when the ECU grounds the injector. A crude test to see if
the injectors are working, is to listen for "clicking" when the engine is cranking.
You can do this with a stethescope probe on the injector metal body, or with
the end of your finger.
The cold start injector is completely independent of the ECU. It will only have
12V when the starter is cranking. If you get 12V at the cold start injector but
no fuel squirting, the injector must be blocked or defective.
Cheers... jondee86
only need to test #1 and #3. They are fired by the ECU pulling the injectors to
ground. Therefore you will have 12V on the injectors dropping to a value near
zero on the ECU side when the ECU grounds the injector. A crude test to see if
the injectors are working, is to listen for "clicking" when the engine is cranking.
You can do this with a stethescope probe on the injector metal body, or with
the end of your finger.
The cold start injector is completely independent of the ECU. It will only have
12V when the starter is cranking. If you get 12V at the cold start injector but
no fuel squirting, the injector must be blocked or defective.
Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.