Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

ZINCHOTRAN · Postby **ZINCHOTRAN** » Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:08 pm

Do we have to drain the power steering fluid in order to change out the inner tie rods?

Also, did anyone have any problems with the rack and pinion bellow bought off of Autozone for the power steering manual rack?

It's going to feel like a brand-new car.

Postby **jondee86** » Mon Feb 24, 2014 12:03 am

ZINCHOTRAN wrote:Do we have to drain the power steering fluid in order to
change out the inner tie rods?

No you don't. The inner tierod ends are external to the seals that
keep the fluid in the rack. The thing you have to keep in mind is that
you should not apply any twisting force to the rack itself.

This means you have to have two tools... one to hold the end of the
rack steady, and one to grip and undo the rod end. You also need to
unstake a lock washer without pounding on the rack.

One pic showing the flats on the end of the rack, and the other
showing the flats on the end of the rod end. Ignore the fat "lock
spacer" washer... that is not supposed to be there.

Cheers... jondee86

ZINCHOTRAN · Postby **ZINCHOTRAN** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 6:36 pm

Great pics. Thanks.

The bellows shown for model year 1985, from autozone, are for manual steering racks. I'm not sure about other years. Live and learn.

I didn't use two wrenches when I removed the inner tie rods. So far no leaks. The inner tie rods came off with a crescent wrench fairly easily after I un-staked the claw washer.

Do you think the small, inner tie rod tool, part No. 25296, from autozone, will work when I go to torque the new inner tie rods? Also, there was no thread locker on the inner tie rods. Looked like they used gasket sealer like when you seal the T50.

Should I be worried about the new tie rod ends not using castle nuts and a cotter pin? They have nylock(nylon) locking nuts.

Should be safe if I use thread locker and torque to spec. Or I can drill a hole in the new tie rod ends and use the old castle nuts and a cotter pin.

ZINCHOTRAN · Postby **ZINCHOTRAN** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:05 pm

The FSM doesn't call for thread locker to be used with the inner tie rods.

Opinions?

ra40 · Postby **ra40** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:30 pm

Remember you can't use thread lock on the adjustable part. You can't align it later. That being said I can't see how it will hurt.

ZINCHOTRAN · Postby **ZINCHOTRAN** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:49 am

Oops. Forgot to say I was only asking about where the inner tie rod is threaded onto the rack.

totta crolla · Postby **totta crolla** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:05 am

ZINCHOTRAN wrote:Oops. Forgot to say I was only asking about where the inner tie rod is threaded onto the rack.

Use a new locking tab and no thread locker will be needed.
I guess you would need to use thread locker if you are using the rack extender spacers.

ZINCHOTRAN · Postby **ZINCHOTRAN** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:24 am

The claw washer is staked and should be enough to keep it safe. I kept overthinking I should add thread locker just to be safe.

Now I need to finish the car before the storm hits. Then have fun in the snow.

Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?

Re: Drain fluid to R&R inner tie rods?