Hello,

Not sure what's up but had to create a new account...... couldn't get logged in...


So here is my plan is to install an AE111 BT into my AE86 since my 4AGE finally gave out. I do not plan to bash my firewall so reading through other threads and post I have pretty much narrowed down the parts list at think and just wanted some help finalizing it.

Water relocate kit - Sam Q/Battle Garage
COP mounting plate - Sam Q/Battle Garage
COP New Pins - Sam Q/Battle Garage
1ZZ COP - Same Q/Battle Garage
Distributor Cap - Sam Q/Battle Garage
Velocity Stacks - Sam Q/Battle Garage
Wiring - Tweak'ed

So the piece of the puzzle is my standalone, the local shops here normally deal with AEM. I sent them an email but in order to help they need some info about the distributor and crank sensors.

The first thing we need to establish is; what is the cam/crank trigger profile (teeth per cycle) and what kind of cam/crank sensors does it use?

Does anyone know the answer to this question? And possible pictures or link to pictures. I do much better visualizing this stuff!

Thanks!

Hi Vasha,

Unfortunately many shops don't know how difficult the OEM 20V and late 4AGE CAS are to work with so I would onyl take it to a shop that has done it before. I've heard some horror stories of people spending 3K at a shop and still not having a running car.

Battle Garage will be coming out with a plug and play stand alone ECU in the near future, we're already set up as a haltech dealer. I don't frequent the boards much so please shoot me an email if you are interested =)

grant attt battlegarage-rs dott com

What I can remember off the top of my head:

CAM wheel sensors (variable reluctance)
24 tooth main wheel - no missing teeth
Second cylinder identification wheel with two sensors, offset 180 cam degrees (360 crank degrees).

No crank sensors.


If they can't get an ecu with the ability to handle a second wheel, one option is to grind off two opposing teeth on the 24 tooth wheel and treat it like a 12 tooth crank wheel with 1 missing tooth.

foonix is right. It's a Nippondenso crank angle sensor. Here's a link with some more info: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/trigger-wheel.html . It's a pretty common sensor arrangement - AEM should handle it just fine.

If you are just trying to get away from the Dizzy cap we hope to have a sequential spark module soon that works with the stock ECU and COP.

If you're not worried about a standalone and just want to get rid of the distributor, look at these threads:
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?cmd=print&id=18900
http://www.86garage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=10869

I can't personally speak to the effectiveness of these techniques, but it seems like they have worked for other people.

Foonix - thanks for the reply at the moment now having one to look at have to trust others, figured something as common as this would already have an FAQ considering the 20v swap threads have a lot of details.

Gzus13 - Thanks for the link will review! I don't plan to put a whole in my RHD firewall and not going to do the front relocation either just looks awful. I've heard mixed review about the stock ECU using the COP and to me I might as well just get a standalone so that it can be programmed and map correctly for the engineer, only reason I plan to go this route since money really isn't the issue.

I got an SW20 3S-GTE DIYAutotune PNP ecu for my blacktop, it plugs into the loom and started straight up, but obviously needs a tune to suit the N/A 1600.
The ecu comes with a GM air temp sensor that you have to wire in, you could use the 20V sensor but the GM one is an open element type sensor.
You can wire it for coil on plug if needed, mine is in an AE111 so still uses the cap, rotor and leads.
This is the ecu I got http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/mega ... p-549.html