aw11 harness(eng/under) + cluster in ae86 would it work?

[jyee86]

ok just a thought, but I was wondering methodically could I utilize both harness from the aw11 and cluster gauge to swap in my sr5 and still be smog legal. I will of course convert it to rwd spec(plenum/exhaust etc.) the other question is would I be able to use the t50 tranny still?

thanks in advance

[dboy160]

ok just a thought, but I was wondering methodically could I utilize both harness from the aw11 and cluster gauge to swap in my sr5 and still be smog legal. I will of course convert it to rwd spec(plenum/exhaust etc.) the other question is would I be able to use the t50 tranny still?

thanks in advance

In my bt swap I started with a sr5 chassis and another crashed sr5 chassis with a 20v bt already in it, I figured it'd be an easy swap... it wasnt. The wiring job was hack so I bought a new braided harness from tweak'd wired for coil on packs (614 shipped with no down time I think I got it in a week. Was supposed to be a complete plug n play unit. It is not, it does come with an efi relay as well as a fuel pump relay but you still have to wire your pump to harness which isnt a big deal as well as run a line sp1 to your gauge cluster. Im still using a sr5 cluster since I like the non stripped look but who knows maybe ill switch to a gts. The other major issue with it is no real instructions but it took me maybe 30 min to reference what each plug was.
Another major issue is if you are using an sr5 chassis harness you will need to extend all the alternator wires still not too big.

You can use the sr5 tranny but the clutch is on the same side as exhaust so a gts tranny or even just a gts belhousing would be best since both trannys are the same only belhousings differ. Since I got mine from an already installed car I didnt have to worry about the air box issue. The stock airbox would face the rear of the car, if you remove box then its not an issue but not sure if smog legal, mine also didnt have an evap and now that I think of it, never got a wire for it so I think my vacuum is all funky, Im having idle surging bogging and fuel issues but that could just be from my set up.

You will need to remove some pins to get the engine mounts set up and notch the end holes on the exhaust manifold.

Another major issue you will deal with will be the water routing, there are kits avails with or without heater options. T3 and SQ engineering make some and can be ordered from battle garage. I like the way SQ's looks, its very simple, battle garage deals with their US sales and is roughly 330 but I know Sam is working on a new design that should be out soon and supposedly cheaper. (luckily mine came with it all done minus the heater option in which I had to drill and tap a 5/8 hose - 3/8npt thread)

Your sr5 doesnt have an intank fuel pump nor inline, its a mechanical pump attached to the rear head. Some people say you need to upgrade the size of your send line and some people say you dont. I'm going to try to get my vac all pack to normal and run a larger send line to see if it fixes my issue but other then all that I dont really know what else I need to add. Sorry if its no help or what not, just letting you know what I've done with mine and whats going on with it so far. Oh my fuel pump isnt turning on unless i ground ecu line "fc" to chassis in order to get my pump running.

[jyee86]

thanks, basically I'll be using the head, engine wiring, under dash wiring, Ecu and cluster from an mr2. I already have a block ready for the head as well as the rwd components for the head. yes, I know the sr5 is a mechanical fuel pump, I was going to run a wire on the rear harness for the fuel pump. my question though is whether or not it would work, since I can't seem to find harnesses from gts that have already been sold/hack to shreds. this is a daily driver(CA) so smog is going to play a factor. as long as I use all oem parts while retaining emission equipment with no performance mods such as headers etc. I should be ok, just have to get it bar'd.