CODE 6 COMES BACK WHEN I JUMP THE CONNECTOR AFTER ATTEMPTING TO START THE CAR AND IT IS RUNNING.
THE COLD IDLE ONLY GETS UP TO 1600rpms ON MOST DAYS
AFTER THE CAR STARTS ON THE 3RD TO 6TH TRY, WARMS UP AND I SHUT IT OFF, CODE 1/NORMAL IS SHOWN.
After the car has warmed up a bit it restarts fine but still has what i feel is a constant misfire.
oil going past the seal on the inside of the distributor could cause a misfire problem?
i checked, reset the timing with the connector jumped. Base idle at 650rpm.
I ohmed the following and all checked good:
TPS
COLD START INJECTOR
UNSURE OF THE FOLLOWING:
AFM/MAF
IGNITION CONTROL MODULE
-I REPLACED THAT A FEW YEARS AGO
WATER TEMPERATURE SENSORS
ECU
I WILL CLEAN OR BUY A NEW IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE.
NOT SURE IF THE IDLE UP SWITCH IS MONTED ON THE AFM/MAF AND OR WHERE TO BUY A USED/NEW ONE.
WHEN I OHMED THE NGK SPARK PLUG WIRES THEY DIDN'T SHOW 25K ohms.
IS IT EASY TO USE A SELF POWERED TEST LIGHT TO CHECK FOR CONTINUITY AND VOLTAGE AT THE FUEL PUMP?
i have look around on-line and can't find a fuel pump testing gauge for our engines. Does anyone know where to purchase or rent one?
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Update as of yesterday, february 23, 2013.
When I push gas pedal all the way to the floor, WOT(clear flood mode), it starts on the third try. I believe that means i have (a) leaky fuel injector(s) and/or cold start fuel injector. A complete restoration requires me to replace/clean all components in a system for less headaches right? I also reinstalled the other distributor and reset the timing and idle. still a misfire but a normal code is shown.
ON A SIDE NOTE I AM SURE I SAW WOLF STEEL IN CANADA IS PRODUCING THE REAR QUARTER PANELS FOR OUR HACHI-ROKUS<3