Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

yabaiani
Club4AG Expert
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:28 am

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby yabaiani » Sun May 17, 2020 2:15 pm

jondee86 wrote:I have no idea how this custom loom works, so I can only comment in general.
There should be one wire from every pin in the ECU plug and you will need to locate
the wires for Aux Outputs 1 and 2. I believe that you must use these PWM capable
outputs for controlling your ISCV. Then you will need to check if the wires are long
enough to route from the ECU mounting location to the ISCV mounting location.

You will likely have an engine loom that has wires for the gauge temp sensor and
ECU temp sensor running down the intake side of the engine. The MAP sensor and
ISCV wires can most likely be run together with temp sensor wires. You will also
need to run a key switched 12V supply to the ISCV. Depending on how your wiring
is setup, this 12V could likely came from the same relay that powers up the 12V
supply to the COP's.

Image

The ISCV will need some kind of mounting bracket or clamp arrangement to hold
it securely in position. And that position should be reasonably close to both the
vacuum collector and ITB's. So maybe there is a spot on the intake side firewall
or inner guard ?

Cheers... jondee86



As promised jondee, here is the loom Barry made me.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
[url=https://ibb.co/TbBCR2N]Image

Image[/url]
Image

User avatar
jondee86
Moderator
Posts: 2915
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:21 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby jondee86 » Sun May 17, 2020 4:59 pm

Looks like a generic loom for a Link Atom install on a stock JDM RHD AE86 with a COP
conversion. Since the JDM MAP version did not have an electrically controlled ISCV it
does not look like there is any provision to run one built into this loom. So I will have
to dig out the Atom pinout diagram and see what the Aux Outputs have been used for.

If they have been assigned to other functions then some re-pinning may be required.
If surplus wires have been removed from the ECU plug then you may need to get a
couple more made up. And as I see that you are planning to use a crank pulley mounted
trigger wheel, you will need to make provision for that future addition.

The loom is very tidy so if extra wires are required I would suggest running the new
wires separately in a matching construction and tape or zip tie it to the main loom.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

yabaiani
Club4AG Expert
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:28 am

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby yabaiani » Sun May 17, 2020 5:13 pm

jondee86 wrote:Looks like a generic loom for a Link Atom install on a stock JDM RHD AE86 with a COP
conversion. Since the JDM MAP version did not have an electrically controlled ISCV it
does not look like there is any provision to run one built into this loom. So I will have
to dig out the Atom pinout diagram and see what the Aux Outputs have been used for.

If they have been assigned to other functions then some re-pinning may be required.
If surplus wires have been removed from the ECU plug then you may need to get a
couple more made up. And as I see that you are planning to use a crank pulley mounted
trigger wheel, you will need to make provision for that future addition.

The loom is very tidy so if extra wires are required I would suggest running the new
wires separately in a matching construction and tape or zip tie it to the main loom.

Cheers... jondee86



There are 2 trigger pin outs on the loom. Could I not use the Trig 1 and Trig 2 inputs? Aux for the ISCV?

Also, do I need a new MAP sensor? There is an internal one in the ECU. I think I plumb my vacuum line into the ECU.

https://dealers.linkecu.com/products/ac ... ensors/MAP

User avatar
jondee86
Moderator
Posts: 2915
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:21 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby jondee86 » Sun May 17, 2020 11:14 pm

I believe that your ECU will have this I/O...
4 Injector Drives
4 Ignition Drives
4 Auxiliary Outputs (Fan, Boost control, idle speed control, etc.)
3 User-configurable Analog Inputs (MAP sensor, wide-band O2, oil pressure, boost adjust knob, etc.)
2 User-configurable Temperature Inputs
2 dedicated trigger inputs
2 User-configurable Digital Inputs

However I am having some difficulty reconciling what is shown in your photos with what
I would expect to see. If I start with your second photos I see two relays, two what look like
fuses and two grey/black plugs that I can't identify. If they are plugs, what are they intended
to connect with ? Or are they more relays ?

I see a TPS plug but it does not look like it would fit the OEM TPS, so perhaps that one is to fit
the TPS on your new ITB's ? I see a 3-wire plug labeled Oil Pressure so are you fitting a separate
oil pressure sensor that will input to the ECU ? The stock OEM oil pressure gauge has the 1-wire
slide clip but if you have a digital dash yours might be different. If you don't have a separate
oil pressure sensor for the ECU then that ANV3 input can be used for your WBO2 analog input.

The does not appear to be any connection for an internal MAP sensor and I see tails left for
splicing to an external MAP sensor. As far as I know the internal sensor is for "barometric
correction" to compensate for changes in altitude.

Triggers 1 and 2 are dedicated inputs for the crank and cam triggers. The ISCV has to be
connected to Aux Outputs 1 and 2 as these are the high current PWM capable outputs. It looks
like Aux 1 might be assigned to something (what ?) but Aux 2 seems to be available. Without a
wiring schematic it is hard for me to figure out what the guy building the loom was intending
to achieve, and what functions the ECU was intended to control.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

yabaiani
Club4AG Expert
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:28 am

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby yabaiani » Tue May 19, 2020 2:09 pm

I dont have the schematic either...hmm...I will try and get it if I can. And you are right, the TPS is mounted on the ITBs which is different than the OEM TPS sensor.

On a side note, when my tuner is tuning on the Link G4+ Atom standalone, I have heard of both a TPS tune (easier to tune and more street driveable) then the harder part of doing a MAP tune or MAP + TPS tune, again not too familiar. What is an ideal way and if it is with MAP or MAP + TPS, should I be purchasing one of Links MAP sensor? If so, which bar do I get (1.15 bar, 2.5 bar, 3 bar)

Also...do I need extra "stuff" and by that I mean additional accessories like connectors, sensors, things like that? I already have the digital gauge cluster from Ronnie w/ Digital Temp & Oil Pressure sensors already in the car.

But I didnt know from a connection perspective if I needed anything additional. For example, on the ISCV, and Link makes one (https://dealers.linkecu.com/PKB3)

https://dealers.linkecu.com/products/ac ... /terminals

User avatar
jondee86
Moderator
Posts: 2915
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:21 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby jondee86 » Tue May 19, 2020 5:56 pm

OK... time to get your ducks in some kind of order. First, what is your plan of action ?
Are you intending to run the engine on the OEM ECU with the OEM RWD intake manifold ?
Or, are you going to install all your upgrade parts including ITB's and Link ECU and then
try and get the engine running before taking the car to the tuner ?

For the first option you should be able to use the factory engine loom and OEM sensors
including TPS, MAP sensor and ECU temperature sensor.

The second option requires the installation of the Link ECU and loom with whatever new
sensors that are required. You already have new IAT and ECT sensors and a new TPS and
the plugs for these should be on your new loom. The trigger signals will come from the
base of your OEM distributor, and the round yellow plug should match to that. You have
four coil connectors and four injector connectors, all good there.

The ISCV we have already covered. You have the Bosch valve and Bosch connector from
Amazon or Ebay. Wires for Aux Out1 and a 12V supply have been provided in your new
loom, so all that is needed there is a wire for Aux Out2 and (if Aux Out1 has not been
dedicated to any other function) add the extra wire and join to the Bosch plug.

Which only leaves the MAP sensor. The is nothing special about MAP sensors. I used the
stock 4AGE MAP sensor on an ITB setup and it worked well. The Link ECU should be able
to be calibrated very easily to work with the OEM MAP sensor you already have. Just splice
the plug onto the end of the wires provided in your new loom. A 1 Bar sensor is fine.

I'm still wondering how you got an "Oil Pressure" connection in the new loom ? Did you tell
Barry that you had an oil pressure sensor and wanted to make it an input to the ECU ?

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

User avatar
jondee86
Moderator
Posts: 2915
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:21 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby jondee86 » Tue May 19, 2020 7:39 pm

yabaiani wrote:On a side note, when my tuner is tuning on the Link G4+ Atom standalone, I have heard
of both a TPS tune (easier to tune and more street driveable) then the harder part of doing
a MAP tune or MAP + TPS tune, again not too familiar. What is an ideal way and if it is with
MAP or MAP + TPS, should I be purchasing one of Links MAP sensor? If so, which bar do I get
(1.15 bar, 2.5 bar, 3 bar)


I have not used a Link ECU and don't know if the Atom is capable of running a MAP + TPS Tune.
Searching the internet did not turn up anything helpful. I suspect that the choice might be
either a MAP tune (which I don't recommend for ITB's) or a TPS tune. Most modern ECU's use
input from a MAP sensor even with a TPS tune as it reacts very quickly and is used in the fuel
calculations for enrichments and transitions. However, you will need to have a chat with
your tuner to see how he usually sets up an ITB engine when using a Link ECU.

Having a WBO2 controller sending AFR information to the ECU allows for closed loop fuel
control which is very helpful in getting an initial tune. Make sure you have a bung welded to
your exhaust header in a suitable location for mounting the O2 sensor.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

yabaiani
Club4AG Expert
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:28 am

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby yabaiani » Tue May 19, 2020 9:22 pm

So helpful jondee. Thank you so so much for your help. I’m sure I still have a million questions so I hope you don’t get annoyed by me asking.

As for the oil pressure sensor, I see there are 2 inputs for them, an Oil P and the Oil PRS connections. I honestly don’t know what the Oil PRS connection is for...I think for another digital oil pressure sensor? Not sure...

User avatar
jondee86
Moderator
Posts: 2915
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:21 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Re: Engine Break In Period + ITB Installation Considerations

Postby jondee86 » Tue May 19, 2020 10:10 pm

I suspect that as the specifications for your engine lean towards the high performance
end of the spectrum, that someone decided you may like to have the ECU protect your
engine in the event of low oil pressure. Here is an explanation...
http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8219-fu ... ment-55129

You don't have to use a pressure sensor, that input could be used for any analog input.

It is usual for the ECU to have one Aux Out dedicated to controlling the fuel pump. In
a typical vehicle it will prime the pump for a few seconds when the ignition is turned
ON, and then start the pump while the engine is cranking and keep the pump on while
the engine is running. If the engine stops running the ECU turns the pump OFF.

I am trying to work out what these two grey/black female plugs are for ? They are
placed so as to be alongside the ECU but for what purpose ?

Image

As far as I can see the only plug that the ECU has is the main 34-pin plug that carries
all the ECI I/O. So these two plugs are a mystery :)

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.