As many of you know, I am currently in the process of building my engine with ITBs...but the filter doesnt fit the existing setup. So I was thinking about getting the following items from Flos, but I dont know if it'll fit because my corolla year is 1986 and I keep reading about zenki/kouki differences. Can anyone help point me in the right direction? If nothing works...do I have to go with a T3 option and if so, is it a 10mm pin or 8mm pin for my car.

https://flos.ie/shop/brake-booster-ae86/
https://flos.ie/shop/ae86-brake-master-cylinder/
https://flos.ie/shop/clutch-master-cylinder-ae86/

https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86 ... 86-corolla

Here are some photos of my car by the way.




big image

Faced with this dilemma, I would suggest going with the booster delete, but looking to fit
a brake master cylinder with a smaller diameter piston. That gets around the issue of trying
to gain sufficient space with a smaller booster. Providing you can find a suitable master (and
there is probably one in the Toyota model range) the brake tubing modifications should be
minimal.

Eliminating the booster will increase the pedal effort required. Fitting a master with a
smaller diameter piston will reduce the pedal effort while increasing the pedal movement.
Fitting brake pads specifically intended for non-boosted brakes is supposed to improve
brake performance. This may be for racing purposes as many drivers prefer non-boosted
braking when racing for the better pedal modulation.

I am lead to believe that this M/C has been used successfully with a custom booster
eliminator plate... http://datsport.com/hydraulic-brake-master-78.html
There is also this... http://www.datsport.com/hydraulic-brake ... der78.html



Because brakes are an important safety item I would strongly recommend that you consult
a motorsport brakes professional for these modifications.

Cheers... jondee86

I deleted my booster, but used the stock M/C, by changing the pedal leverage. For a manual system you will need a pedal leverage in the 5 thru 7 to 1 range. It just requires you to move up the pivot point where the M/C push rod attaches to the foot pedal arm. You should also raise the M/C on the fire wall to keep the push rod aligned within 7 degrees. I was able to use the internal booster push rod, but you may need to fabricate a new push rod. I would also look at making a reinforcement plate where the M/C attaches to the fire wall. As already noted, with either a smaller M/C or leverage ratio change, you will end up with great brake pedal travel. davew7

Worst case you could check out some of the Wilwood master cylinders. Their guys can help you size things just right for whatever brake setup.you're after once they know what calipers you're using.