All Plug No Play - 20V ST Conversion
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 6:04 pm
Hi everyone,
I've exhausted ideas on what can be keeping my car from firing up. What was supposed to be "Plug & Play" has been a complete headache
History
My car was originally an SR5 automatic. I converted the car to manual many years ago. I never had an issue starting the 4AC motor. A few years ago I purchased a 20V Silvertop motor. I had the motor torn apart and rebuilt by Dan Beachnau.
Components
Stock rebuild with Tomei Cams (Pretty Much OE Replacement). Still using OEM Cam Gears.
Tweak 20V Haltech 750 Conversion harness with 1NZ coils purchased from Battle Garage.
Brand New GTS Fuel Tank and Pump.
New NGK Plugs
SQ Engineering Honda Starter Adapter with Starter
Using a Toyota Air Temp Sensor.
JSP Custom Header (Currently no O2 sensor or wideband plugged in).
Idle Speed Control Valve is plugged in and I do have a hose running to the stock location on the cam case.
Stock 20v Injectors. Serviced and tested by RC Injectors.
SQ Engineering Coolant Reroute.
SQ Engineering Dizzy Blockoff Plate
Current Symptoms
I am getting 40psi of fuel pressure when cranking. The car is not starting. No pops as if misfiring. I have tried starter fluid and there's a few pops here and there but not enough to get the engine going.
I have moved the engine harness ground back and forth from the firewall and block multiple times in an effort to get it to start. The motor is grounded to the chassis. I have a 2 gauge wire going from the passenger side of the block to the passenger strut. I have a 2 gauge wire going from the driver side of the block going to the driver side strut. The battery is grounded to the driver strut. I also have a ground going from the back of the head to the firewall.
Cam from Tweak Performance has been super helpful and has went out of his end to confirm the harness is good. We used a noid light to confirm the signal to the fuel injectors. We confirmed all four coils are getting spark. Confirmed wiring orientation and continuity.
I reached out to Grant and BattleGarge and he can't seem to figure out why it doesn't start, not even misfire. We went over the basemap and tried multiple times to start the car. We checked synchronization, the TPS is working properly.
I am running a vacuum hose from the small vacuum nipple under cylinder 4 directly into my haltech 750. The map sensor on the harness is not plugged into anything.
Grant had me call Haltech and they did a remote tune. They played with setting and still couldn't figure out why the car isn't starting. They were using 5° and the BattleGarage map had 388°. Both TDC offset angles were unsuccessful. Yes the ignition was enabled.
I did crank the car without spark plugs and I did not see any fuel/mist. I tried a second set of used injectors and still nothing.
Engine Bay Fuse Box - Checked Fuse #7(Engine) & Fuse #8(EFI) are new. I did add the Relay to R1(EFI). R2 (Engine Main) is still the original one that came with the car
Driverside Kick Panel - #3(Engine Main Relay, EFI Main Relay, Charge Warning Light) is good.
Battery - Upgraded AM1(Engine Main Relay) to a 80AMP and AM2(Ignition S/W) is good.
If you've made is this far I appreciate it. I welcome any help. This has been far from plug and play. I hope I'm missing
I've exhausted ideas on what can be keeping my car from firing up. What was supposed to be "Plug & Play" has been a complete headache
History
My car was originally an SR5 automatic. I converted the car to manual many years ago. I never had an issue starting the 4AC motor. A few years ago I purchased a 20V Silvertop motor. I had the motor torn apart and rebuilt by Dan Beachnau.
Components
Stock rebuild with Tomei Cams (Pretty Much OE Replacement). Still using OEM Cam Gears.
Tweak 20V Haltech 750 Conversion harness with 1NZ coils purchased from Battle Garage.
Brand New GTS Fuel Tank and Pump.
New NGK Plugs
SQ Engineering Honda Starter Adapter with Starter
Using a Toyota Air Temp Sensor.
JSP Custom Header (Currently no O2 sensor or wideband plugged in).
Idle Speed Control Valve is plugged in and I do have a hose running to the stock location on the cam case.
Stock 20v Injectors. Serviced and tested by RC Injectors.
SQ Engineering Coolant Reroute.
SQ Engineering Dizzy Blockoff Plate
Current Symptoms
I am getting 40psi of fuel pressure when cranking. The car is not starting. No pops as if misfiring. I have tried starter fluid and there's a few pops here and there but not enough to get the engine going.
I have moved the engine harness ground back and forth from the firewall and block multiple times in an effort to get it to start. The motor is grounded to the chassis. I have a 2 gauge wire going from the passenger side of the block to the passenger strut. I have a 2 gauge wire going from the driver side of the block going to the driver side strut. The battery is grounded to the driver strut. I also have a ground going from the back of the head to the firewall.
Cam from Tweak Performance has been super helpful and has went out of his end to confirm the harness is good. We used a noid light to confirm the signal to the fuel injectors. We confirmed all four coils are getting spark. Confirmed wiring orientation and continuity.
I reached out to Grant and BattleGarge and he can't seem to figure out why it doesn't start, not even misfire. We went over the basemap and tried multiple times to start the car. We checked synchronization, the TPS is working properly.
I am running a vacuum hose from the small vacuum nipple under cylinder 4 directly into my haltech 750. The map sensor on the harness is not plugged into anything.
Grant had me call Haltech and they did a remote tune. They played with setting and still couldn't figure out why the car isn't starting. They were using 5° and the BattleGarage map had 388°. Both TDC offset angles were unsuccessful. Yes the ignition was enabled.
I did crank the car without spark plugs and I did not see any fuel/mist. I tried a second set of used injectors and still nothing.
Engine Bay Fuse Box - Checked Fuse #7(Engine) & Fuse #8(EFI) are new. I did add the Relay to R1(EFI). R2 (Engine Main) is still the original one that came with the car
Driverside Kick Panel - #3(Engine Main Relay, EFI Main Relay, Charge Warning Light) is good.
Battery - Upgraded AM1(Engine Main Relay) to a 80AMP and AM2(Ignition S/W) is good.
If you've made is this far I appreciate it. I welcome any help. This has been far from plug and play. I hope I'm missing