https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/trigger-wheel-setup/

As many of you know, the ITB Kit is almost finished. Just trying to finish up running new fuel lines since mine are rusted.

Before I crank it up for the first time...I had a question on my Link ECU, the stock dizzy, and my trigger wheel / Hall effect sensor kit. I switched my setup to coil on plug, have removed my existing dizzy and put in a block off plate.

I heard from Barry that I need to have my dizzy in for a “home position” but I don’t quite understand.

Can someone help me better understand this...and what is needed to get the base map fired up on the car for the first time?

Bit of an explanation here... https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/on ... nsors.html

Short answer is that you need a Cam Angle Sensor if you want to run full sequential. If you
just run a 36-1 crank sensor without a CAS then you will be limited to wasted spark ignition
and batch fired injection (that is if your LINK will actually run without a CAS signal).

Easiest solution is to convert your distributor to a CAS by removing the cap and wires and
getting a CNC cover to close the top. Pretty sure Barry has them in stock.

Cheers... jondee86

jondee86 wrote:Bit of an explanation here... https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/on ... nsors.html

Short answer is that you need a Cam Angle Sensor if you want to run full sequential. If you
just run a 36-1 crank sensor without a CAS then you will be limited to wasted spark ignition
and batch fired injection (that is if your LINK will actually run without a CAS signal).

Easiest solution is to convert your distributor to a CAS by removing the cap and wires and
getting a CNC cover to close the top. Pretty sure Barry has them in stock.

Cheers... jondee86

Hmmmm...so the CNC plate I bought that covers the dizzy, it only worked because I removed the entire thing. So even though I have my trigger wheel and Hall effect sensor set up, it won’t work.

What you’re saying is I need to use my distributor and convert it to a cam angle sensor by removing the cap and wires and close the top. Just to ask...how would I do that?

yabaiani wrote:So even though I have my trigger wheel and Hall effect sensor set up, it won’t work.

You may be able to get it to work (if the LINK can be set up to run without a reset signal) but
it would be a very basic setup. To get full sequential ignition and injection you need a reset
(cam angle) signal that tells the ECU where the engine is in its firing order and which cylinder
to inject/ignite next.

The reset signal comes from the top trigger wheel in the distributor (the one with the smallest
number of teeth). Some 4AGE distributors have four teeth on the trigger wheel and some have
only one. On some the one tooth may be a wider part that extends about halfway round the
outside of a circular wheel. I believe that some MR2 distributors and late model smallport
distributors are shaped like this. Some may have two pickups on the trigger wheel but you only
need to use one.



If your distributor has four teeth you may have to remove three of them with a Dremmel or
similar. I never had to do this but I understand that it is covered in the Microsquirt manual.
Then remove the rotor, cap and wires and close the top with the cover plate. If you have the
original wiring and plug you can run the Gnd and G1 to the trigger inputs on your ECU.

More info here... https://www.club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20841

Cheers... jondee86

jondee86 wrote:

yabaiani wrote:So even though I have my trigger wheel and Hall effect sensor set up, it won’t work.

You may be able to get it to work (if the LINK can be set up to run without a reset signal) but
it would be a very basic setup. To get full sequential ignition and injection you need a reset
(cam angle) signal that tells the ECU where the engine is in its firing order and which cylinder
to inject/ignite next.

The reset signal comes from the top trigger wheel in the distributor (the one with the smallest
number of teeth). Some 4AGE distributors have four teeth on the trigger wheel and some have
only one. On some the one tooth may be a wider part that extends about halfway round the
outside of a circular wheel. I believe that some MR2 distributors and late model smallport
distributors are shaped like this. Some may have two pickups on the trigger wheel but you only
need to use one.



If your distributor has four teeth you may have to remove three of them with a Dremmel or
similar. I never had to do this but I understand that it is covered in the Microsquirt manual.
Then remove the rotor, cap and wires and close the top with the cover plate. If you have the
original wiring and plug you can run the Gnd and G1 to the trigger inputs on your ECU.

More info here... viewtopic.php?t=20841

Cheers... jondee86

Thank you so much jondee86. I hope I can figure this out and get it all up and running...my dizzy was leaking to begin with so I may have to get a new one. That's why I bought that block off plate and the hall effect sensor / trigger wheel combo thinking I could get rid of it completely.

A trigger wheel on the crank produces a higher quality rpm (Ne) signal which contributes
to smoother engine running. There are a few different ways of getting a reset signal such
as fitting a sensor into the cam cover to read directly off a cam lobe, but using the distributor
to get a signal will get you up and running sooner

If the distributor is leaking oil externally the big O-ring on the outside needs replacing. If
it is leaking oil to the inside the shaft seal needs replacing. There are several places selling
rebuild kits (seal plus bearing) and it is a relatively simple DIY. Plenty of videos on Youtube
to show how it is done if you have a few basic tools.

Cheers... jondee86

Quick question related to this. I have a 4AGE 4x-1x distributor, red, white,green and black wires.
I believe that the red is the N+ lead and the white is the N- lead (both for the trigger signal).
I am guessing that the green wire is the G+ lead and the black is the G- lead (home signal)
Can anyone confirm this? I am trying to hook up to a Haltech Elite ecu.
thanks
Doug

I think this covers it pretty well... https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/2653-4 ... er-wiring/

Cheers... jondee86