Hi, i just got a set of Battle Version Race rear 4 links and lateral bar for my AE86. Does it hard to replace them and do i need special tools? I never been done before so any tips? I appreciate it if you guys can help!

You need a jack and a couple jackstands. If I remember right, all the nuts and bolts are 17mm, and they'll be pretty snug. I used a small pry bar to pull the links out.

carbd7age wrote:You need a jack and a couple jackstands. If I remember right, all the nuts and bolts are 17mm, and they'll be pretty snug. I used a small pry bar to pull the links out.

thank you for the answer, I'll try today hope I can finish it, thanks!

hopefully none of your bolts are seized into the bushing sleeves like a couple of mine were.

If that's the case, you're gonna have a bad time.

other than that its pretty straight forward, theres just a bolt going through each end of the links.

the top ones will be harder to get to than the bottom, but not that bad.

Ratchet wrenches are super helpful.

carbd7age wrote:Ratchet wrenches are super helpful.

Is this side go to the rear end bolt right? If so i dont know how to do this, the stock one's hole is big enough to fit all the way in, but the battler version one i have i cant fit it all the way in. please help im lost..

you talking about the panhard rod? BV panhard the rubber side goes on the rear end.

Spray everything down with some breakaway or some kind of lubricant/penatrant to make it easier to remove them.
Also, when you install the new parts grab a small tube of anti seize. I like to put a dab of anti seize on the bolts. That will protect them and make it easier to remove if needed to do some work down the road.
Just thought I'd add my .02

Done the panhard bar and under 2 links(longer one), still have the upper 2 links(shorter one) i dont think i can do it since i dont have jack stand to hold the car more stable. Thank you for the help guys!
Still have front coilovers and header to install, dont know if i can finish them never done before, any tips?

Go buy more jackstands and don't let the car fall on you.

carbd7age wrote:Go buy more jackstands and don't let the car fall on you.

yeah ill get some real soon, How much do you think I go to the shop install the front coilovers and the rear 2 links(shorter one)?

the front coilovers are easy man. jack the car, take the wheel off, undo the brake caliper from the back, knock the hub-center cover off (gently with a hammer), undo the spline bolt, take the rotor off, undo the 4 bolts that attach to the side of the strut tube holding the shields and stuff on, then unbolt the bottom two that hold it up from the bottom and the top 3 nuts that go onto the strut tower. Opposite for reinstall. Take pics as you do it and make a DIY while you do it and you should be golden. Save yourself the pain of paying for the shop. I'd also highly recommend a breaker bar for the rear links ( more Length = more Torque = less effort)

NC Panda wrote:the front coilovers are easy man. jack the car, take the wheel off, undo the brake caliper from the back, knock the hub-center cover off (gently with a hammer), undo the spline bolt, take the rotor off, undo the 4 bolts that attach to the side of the strut tube holding the shields and stuff on, then unbolt the bottom two that hold it up from the bottom and the top 3 nuts that go onto the strut tower. Opposite for reinstall. Take pics as you do it and make a DIY while you do it and you should be golden. Save yourself the pain of paying for the shop. I'd also highly recommend a breaker bar for the rear links ( more Length = more Torque = less effort)

Yeah not that har, but some bolts are so fxxken tight, i cant loosen it by hand, but anyways i will try first.
I installed 2 links already( the longer on), but i dont think i can install the other 2 links(shorter on on the top), there is no space to do it, and i think its so hard to take them off right?

upper links should be pretty easy to get off. I only had trouble with my lower ones.

LongGrain wrote:upper links should be pretty easy to get off. I only had trouble with my lower ones.

really? Does it hard to loosen the bolts?

shouldnt be. I had no problem getting my top ones off, it was the lower ones that were the real bitch.

I had to use a cutting torch to get my lowers off the car.

You are going to need one of these. This is a Required tool.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1-2-in-dr-15-in-flex-handle/p-00944201000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

MisterJerk wrote:You are going to need one of these. This is a Required tool.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1-2-in-dr-15-in-flex-handle/p-00944201000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

What tool? the wedsite has errors.

LongGrain wrote:shouldnt be. I had no problem getting my top ones off, it was the lower ones that were the real bitch.

I had to use a cutting torch to get my lowers off the car.

Yea the lowers took me so long to make them off. So the top one way easier than the lower one?

it really all depends on how your car decided to settle itself and what decided to seize up. Mine just took a little extra love. And that required tool would be a breaker bar, it's just a long bar that has a 1/4 inch socket adapter on the end that pivots. Go to HF, Autozone, (insert any place that sells tools here) and get one. They are usually decently cheap

NC Panda wrote:it really all depends on how your car decided to settle itself and what decided to seize up. Mine just took a little extra love. And that required tool would be a breaker bar, it's just a long bar that has a 1/4 inch socket adapter on the end that pivots. Go to HF, Autozone, (insert any place that sells tools here) and get one. They are usually decently cheap

Yeah I used the jack handlebar as a breaker bar. No special tools needed right?

Its a half inch drive, 15" handle, breaker bar. It is actually my favorite tool, after the BFH. you can fit a piece of pipe over the end to cheat a bit(aka, cheater bar)

It is easier to get to the top bars, if you take the shocks off and push the rear end down(body on jack stands). I dont recall removing them to be anything special. I have recently replaced all my bushings with polyurethane.

MisterJerk wrote:Its a half inch drive, 15" handle, breaker bar. It is actually my favorite tool, after the BFH. you can fit a piece of pipe over the end to cheat a bit(aka, cheater bar)

It is easier to get to the top bars, if you take the shocks off and push the rear end down(body on jack stands). I dont recall removing them to be anything special. I have recently replaced all my bushings with polyurethane.

Do I have to remove the shocks and let the rear end down? Is possible just do it without removing anything?

the bottom of the shocks are held on with a 14mm bolt just undo that bolt, undo the 2 14mm bolts on each side where the swaybar bolts to the chassis and let the rear end swing all the way down so you have easy access to the 4 links.

quit making things harder on yourself by not wanting to take off some bolts. Work smarter, not harder.

LongGrain wrote:the bottom of the shocks are held on with a 14mm bolt just undo that bolt, undo the 2 14mm bolts on each side where the swaybar bolts to the chassis and let the rear end swing all the way down so you have easy access to the 4 links.

quit making things harder on yourself by not wanting to take off some bolts. Work smarter, not harder.

Installed the coilovers tonight, took me 6 hours, I know..I'm first time doing this. I found out the coilovers are so low, TRD shocks and T3 coilovers with stock strut case. im running 14x7 0 offset with 195 60 14 tires on front it rubbing so bad! I think the TRD shocks are too short so I couldnt adjust it taller? but I'm not sure does anyone knows?