i was wondering if you guys can help me how to relocate my battery to the trunk of my 86
i looked a lot of places couldnt really find anything but if you could help would really appreciate it
thank you for your time
battery relocation
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chrisrodriguez822
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:15 am
battery relocation
hello to everyone on club4ag
i was wondering if you guys can help me how to relocate my battery to the trunk of my 86
i looked a lot of places couldnt really find anything but if you could help would really appreciate it
thank you for your time
i was wondering if you guys can help me how to relocate my battery to the trunk of my 86
i looked a lot of places couldnt really find anything but if you could help would really appreciate it
thank you for your time
Re: battery relocation
Check the "old forum" posts, I know there were some there.
Basically...simplest way to do this is to run two heavy cables, like #2AWG, from the existing battery location back to the trunk. Install a battery holder--don't just stick it there--and an adequate battery fuse right ON the battery. Breakers can weld shut under a crowbar short, so you're looking at a fuse. A fuse designed for primary batteries, not just an ATO or audio type. Somewhat heavier than the normal 80A fusible link since you'll also be powering the starter from this, maybe 100 or 120A. You may also want to install a battery switch back there, for convenience and safety, since the new long run of cables can be a hazard. Run the cable through the firewall and inside the cabin, chafe protect them at the firewall (a couple of layers of reinforced hose is a good way) and at any cross members they need to go under along the drive tunnel and getting into the rear.
Probably the best and cheapest way to get the correct terminal lugs on the cables is to just order them pre-made from www.genuinedealz.com who are very reasonable with a great rep for quality. You may want to pull one seat and the carpet to check the actual routing, and run a tape or string to see just how long you'll need them to be, then order them.
DIY cable lugs are really hard to make properly, and if they aren't made properly they give you voltage drop (or worse, come lose and start a fire) so...splurge, let them put on the right terminals for you. And for the shorter cable from the battery to the battery fuse as well.
You can do better or worse, plain or fancy, but that's a good start. Oh, and you might want to use an AGM battery, so there's no problem with acid or acid fumes in the trunk. FIATs rotted out from that. BMW uses an external vent hose to avoid it. Mazda uses AGMs and makes it simple.
A flat plate AGM battery is about 30% more expensive than a wet lead battery, also 30-50% cheaper than an Optima battery, and has about 10% more capacity than a "same group" Optima battery. FWIW.
Basically...simplest way to do this is to run two heavy cables, like #2AWG, from the existing battery location back to the trunk. Install a battery holder--don't just stick it there--and an adequate battery fuse right ON the battery. Breakers can weld shut under a crowbar short, so you're looking at a fuse. A fuse designed for primary batteries, not just an ATO or audio type. Somewhat heavier than the normal 80A fusible link since you'll also be powering the starter from this, maybe 100 or 120A. You may also want to install a battery switch back there, for convenience and safety, since the new long run of cables can be a hazard. Run the cable through the firewall and inside the cabin, chafe protect them at the firewall (a couple of layers of reinforced hose is a good way) and at any cross members they need to go under along the drive tunnel and getting into the rear.
Probably the best and cheapest way to get the correct terminal lugs on the cables is to just order them pre-made from www.genuinedealz.com who are very reasonable with a great rep for quality. You may want to pull one seat and the carpet to check the actual routing, and run a tape or string to see just how long you'll need them to be, then order them.
DIY cable lugs are really hard to make properly, and if they aren't made properly they give you voltage drop (or worse, come lose and start a fire) so...splurge, let them put on the right terminals for you. And for the shorter cable from the battery to the battery fuse as well.
You can do better or worse, plain or fancy, but that's a good start. Oh, and you might want to use an AGM battery, so there's no problem with acid or acid fumes in the trunk. FIATs rotted out from that. BMW uses an external vent hose to avoid it. Mazda uses AGMs and makes it simple.
A flat plate AGM battery is about 30% more expensive than a wet lead battery, also 30-50% cheaper than an Optima battery, and has about 10% more capacity than a "same group" Optima battery. FWIW.
-- Original owner, 1985 GT-S