Knuckle arm removal

ZINCHOTRAN
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Knuckle arm removal

Postby ZINCHOTRAN » Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:50 pm

Does anyone know how to remove the knuckle arm from the lower control arm without taking it into a machine shop?

Stay warm and dry on the Eastside. There is hardly any snow over here on the west side.

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Tora
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby Tora » Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:40 pm

I used a ball joint fork. Hammared it in until there was enough leverage to pop the ball joint off of the knuckle. Similar to getting the outer tie rods off of the knuckle arm, but easier (IMO) becasue I didn't mushroom it by trying to get it off with a hammer.

Zissou
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby Zissou » Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:50 am

+1, also called a ball joint seperator or pickle fork.

totta crolla
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby totta crolla » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:59 am

A little penetrating fluid around the tapered joint helps a lot.
Greasing the prongs of the separator fork will help to avoid damaging the rubber grease seal on the control arm bearing.
This type of joint can also be removed with two heavy 'lump' hammers. Basically one hammer is held against one side of the joint while the other is used to hit the other.
Like in this video but use a hammer on the other side too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpAwM2xH-IU
Not my favourite method to be honest but it is normal practice in many commercial workshops.

ZINCHOTRAN
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby ZINCHOTRAN » Wed Jan 29, 2014 5:57 am

Ok, great. I'll try those methods and let y'all know how it went. I made the mistake of trying to use a 2/3 jaw puller. That didn't work. For the tie rods, they came off really easy with the OEM pitman puller from autozone.

I know most of us try to avoid the machine shop due to cost and/or we are low on funds and just want to do all the work ourselves.

We finally got snow on the ground in Wenatchee Washington. :)

Deuce Cam
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby Deuce Cam » Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:52 am

Spray connection with pb blaster. Screw ball joint retention nut on to protect threads. Center the joint and place a small 2x4 on top of the nut/stud. Grab 2 c clamps and clamp the bottom of the knuckle and top of the wood on each side basically making a little press tool. Tighten both evenly until there as tight as you can get by hand. Then lightly hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer and it should pop right out.

ZINCHOTRAN
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby ZINCHOTRAN » Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:00 am

DeuceCam: What size C clamps did you use? Shoveling is FuN :?

I'm replacing the tie rod ends and ball joints. It's my first time doing anything to the suspension. I'm kicking myself for not doing anything for the suspension since I bought it in 2006.

When I replaced the inner race of the hub I noticed it would move around and wasn't a snug fit. I believe that means the hub is cracked.

Oops, off topic. Back to work on my AE86.

Deuce Cam
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby Deuce Cam » Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:22 am

I used some with a 3" max jaw opening. However, I use ball joints that have a lower profile than normal so you may need slightly larger c clamps.

The bj separator tools work good too there's just a higher risk of damaging the boot.

ZINCHOTRAN
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby ZINCHOTRAN » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:32 pm

I tried two C-clamps and a block of steel.

Then I tried it another way and it worked real well because I didn't need to save the old ball joints.
I placed the inserts for the jackstands on top of the concrete block which then pushed up on the knuckle arm

One ball joint is out. The control arm bent after I accidentally hit it with the hammer. Now I need to pry the edge far enough out so I can use the ball joint press from autozone.

I'm using an iPad mini so not sure how to post pictures.

ZINCHOTRAN
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Re: Knuckle arm removal

Postby ZINCHOTRAN » Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:50 pm

I didn't know they were held into place by a C clip. They would've popped out if I removed them first. Live and learn right? :o

I thank everyone for their knowledge. Now I need to press them in after I raise the front end a few more inches. If not, I won't be able to press them in with the ball joint press.