ITB's, Coilpack, Haltech ECU installation for 16v

Tj.guanzon
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 10:13 am

ITB's, Coilpack, Haltech ECU installation for 16v

Postby Tj.guanzon » Sat Apr 13, 2019 9:52 am

Hello!

Anyone know if there's a shop that builds a harness for this conversion?

I've been kind of looking around, and haven't really found much on doing this, but I've been trying to adapt a set of ITB's from a 20v to my 16v engine. I have a Haltech Sprint 500 ECU, T3 adapter, and air pressure manifold. I'm also trying to use coilpack from the 1ZZ-FE motor. Everything is hooked up, but I can't even get the car to turn over. I suck at wiring, and I've been using various diagrams to put it together, but I haven't had any luck. A lot of what I see is "look it up and you'll find it." Unfortunately, this seems to be done more with the 20V than the 16V. I'm honestly getting to a point where I just want to get rid of the motor and throw a 1UZ in it, but I'm very much in love with the 4AGE engine.

The car's an 1986 Levin from Japan. I'm only fairly positive that it's a GT-V.

I'd appreciate the advice!
TJ

Disable adblock

This site is supported by ads and donations.
If you see this text you are blocking our ads.
Please consider a Donation to support the site.


User avatar
jondee86
Moderator
Posts: 2367
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:21 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Re: ITB's, Coilpack, Haltech ECU installation for 16v

Postby jondee86 » Sat Apr 13, 2019 4:48 pm

This is a very familiar story :) You are not the first one to discover that
installing an aftermarket ECU in an AE86 can become your worst nightmare !!!
I went down this road myself a few years ago (ITB's and ECU) and know the
feeling when you are at the "crank but no start" stage.

There is a lot of learning involved, and if you are not good with wiring diagrams
and the electrical working of the sensors and engines in general, then it just
makes the learning process a bit longer. If your ECU came with the 2.5 metre
flying leads, then it is not too difficult to make your own engine harness.

But you will need to be able to make a decent splice to connect the flying leads
to the engine sensors (TPS, WT, MAT, COP's etc). That means having a decent
wire stripper, crimping tool or soldering iron, heat shrink tubing etc and know
how to use them. If you are not confident in doing this work yourself, then you
will need to track down an auto electrician who can make the engine harness
for you. If you have a dyno tuning shop in your town they should be able to put
you onto someone who is familiar with the wiring required.

But as you say that you have got the install to the cranking stage (engine turns
over on the starter but no fire in the hole); how confident are you that you have
wired up the sensors and ECU inputs/outputs correctly ?

1. Have you tested all the wires end to end for continuity ?
2. Have you checked that you have 12V at the ECU with the key ON ?
3. Have you loaded a 4age basemap into the ECU ?
4. Have you tested to see if the ECU is getting readings from the sensors ?
5. Have you set the ECU for sequential (or wasted spark) ignition ?
6. Are the ignition outputs connected to the correct cylinders ?
7. Do you have an ISCV installed and connected ?
8. Are you planning to tune by TPS or by MAP ?
9. If tuning by MAP do you have the sensor hooked up and calibrated ?
10. Do you have the ECU fuel pump output enabled ?
11. Are the ECU grounds fastened down as per the installation instructions ?
21. Engine to chassis ground solid ?
13. COP's getting 12V with the key ON ?
14. All unecessary spigots, holes (vacuum leaks) in the manifold blocked off ?


It doesn't take much to stop an engine running. One wire is all it takes which
is why you have to check and double check to make sure everything is connected
up correctly so that the ECU gets the information it is looking for. Then the ECU
has to have the correct settings so that it can deliver the right amount of fuel
and spark at the correct time. Getting the correct crank timing signals (usually
from the distributor base or GZE CAS) is critical to getting the engine to fire.

So if all of this hasn't put you off cars for life, come back with some answers to
the above basic check list :)

Cheers... jondee96
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

UNLIMITED 86
Club4AG Enthusiast
Posts: 91
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:38 pm
Location: 619

Re: ITB's, Coilpack, Haltech ECU installation for 16v

Postby UNLIMITED 86 » Sun Apr 14, 2019 2:45 pm

I'm not a shop (yet) but I can make you a harness if you're really interested.

My Corolla is currently running an SDS standalone on a 16v HighComp with 20v ITBs. I made my harness to be 100% backwards compatible meaning, I can drop my stock engine and harness into my car without any extra work.

Where are you located?
Make Club4AG Great Again!

Initial DeezNutz

Disable adblock

This site is supported by ads and donations.
If you see this text you are blocking our ads.
Please consider a Donation to support the site.



Return to “TECH: 4A-GE ENGINE”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests