jondee86 wrote:What ECU are you using.... OEM or aftermarket ?
Is the engine stock or highly modified ?
Stock engine + factory ECU + igniter + coil = all good.
Modified engine + Aftermarket ECU + coils = all good
Cheers... jondee86
4* logic level ignition outputs (4cyl COP, 8cyl wasted)
jondee86 wrote:OK... with that engine spec you definitely need full control over ignition timing.
So looking at the Microsquirt spec sheet I see that it mentions...4* logic level ignition outputs (4cyl COP, 8cyl wasted)
The key words are "logic level" which means that it can be used to drive
up to four "smart" coils with built-in igniters, or control a separate igniter
to fire "dumb" coils.
I used a 2-channel igniter from a Subaru Legacy and two GZE coils to
run wasted spark. Then replaced that setup with 1NZ/2NZ COP's and
ran full sequential ignition. I only ran a max of 15psi and both setups
worked fine. If you plan on running 30psi start looking at LS coils
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:Sorry... been a while since I used distributor ignition and I forgot about that option.
Sure, if you already have the MSD and distributor setup you could use that.
http://megasquirt.free.fr/sources/MS/manual/ms2/msd6av22.gif
http://megasquirt.free.fr/sources/MS/ma ... /msd6a.htm
It's all laid out in the manual. Take the VR rpm signal from the distributor, change
it to a square wave and send it to the ECU. The ECU does a bit of processing and
switches the MSD to ground to generate a spark. You will also need to wire the
camshaft position sensor in the distributor to the ECU. Sounds pretty straight
forward if you say it quickly
I've not worked with MS stuff and so I'm a bit short on the actual details. But there
are some experienced MS users on the forum and I'm sure that they will be able to
help you out with the finer details. You need as much spark energy as you can get
with boosted engines, so the MSD setup would actually be a good choice.
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:There are some very good articles on the interweb on how to wire and setup
your Microsqirt. This is one of them... http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm
You will need to study these guides until you have at least a basic understanding
of how an EFI engine management system works. It may seem intimidating to begin
with, but if you can pick out the parts that apply to your setup and make a few
notes, after a while it will start to make some sense
Your distributor should have at least two trigger wheels each with a pickup. Each
pickup will have two wires but the ground wires may be combined so that there are
only three wires coming out of the dissy. Some of these wires will have been
connected to the MSD but now they will be connected directly to the ECU. The VR
input wires to the MSD will now be unused and taped off.
You will also need a few extra sensors for the EFI system...
- a 2 bar MAP sensor (up to 15psi)
- a throttle position sensor (TPS)
- a manifold air temp (MAT) sensor
- a Wide Band O2 (WBO2) AFR gauge that outputs a signal to the ECU
More detail here... http://www.useasydocs.com/details/us3tune.htm
That manual is a kind of tough read as it contains a lot of information. But when
you get stuck you will find the answers buried in there
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:Yes... the best thing that you can do is get a piece of paper and create a basic
wiring diagram. Identify every input and output that will be connected to the ECU
and where your power supply will be coming from. Something like this...
http://www.useasydocs.com/details/ew3_hires.gif
You will want to add the dissy and ignition to your diagram just so that you don't
forget about them. And your diagram doesn't have to be flash... hand drawn will
get the job done and easy to make changes. The diagram here has quite a few
items that you won't need or use, so you can leave them out.
Don't forget that you will need an EFI fuel pump, filter and fuel pressure regulator
along with the fuel rail and fixing bolts.
Cheers... jondee86
jakes_hachiroku wrote: also I CAN NOT find a small port fuel rail to save my life!
Davegt27 wrote:You also need a MSD tach adaptor
jondee86 wrote:jakes_hachiroku wrote: also I CAN NOT find a small port fuel rail to save my life!
I have a spare one here in New Zealand. They usually sell here for around NZ$100 and
postage to the US will be around NZ$35. So if you get stuck NZ$135 = US$88 and it's yours
in a couple of weeks for US$92 (including Paypal fees).
Cheers... jondee86
jakes_hachiroku wrote:Wow! super hard to find here in the states idk why lol But I will paypal you that
money today if you are willing to get rid of it!!!! just let me know and I will give
you my paypal info
jondee86 wrote:jakes_hachiroku wrote:Wow! super hard to find here in the states idk why lol But I will paypal you that
money today if you are willing to get rid of it!!!! just let me know and I will give
you my paypal info
PM'd you but bit of a screw up... I forgot I needed the fuel rail for a spare smallport
engine that I will be selling soon. So hold up on the Paypal until I can track another
one down. They come up fairly regularly on a local auction site and I should be able
to get one for you... might take a few more weeks.
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:Still looking for one of these ?
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:There are some very good articles on the interweb on how to wire and setup
your Microsqirt. This is one of them... http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm
You will need to study these guides until you have at least a basic understanding
of how an EFI engine management system works. It may seem intimidating to begin
with, but if you can pick out the parts that apply to your setup and make a few
notes, after a while it will start to make some sense
Your distributor should have at least two trigger wheels each with a pickup. Each
pickup will have two wires but the ground wires may be combined so that there are
only three wires coming out of the dissy. Some of these wires will have been
connected to the MSD but now they will be connected directly to the ECU. The VR
input wires to the MSD will now be unused and taped off.
You will also need a few extra sensors for the EFI system...
- a 2 bar MAP sensor (up to 15psi)
- a throttle position sensor (TPS)
- a manifold air temp (MAT) sensor
- a Wide Band O2 (WBO2) AFR gauge that outputs a signal to the ECU
More detail here... http://www.useasydocs.com/details/us3tune.htm
That manual is a kind of tough read as it contains a lot of information. But when
you get stuck you will find the answers buried in there
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:Here is the diagram from the Microsquirt manual and I have marked the connections that
you should be using is you have the basic 4AGE distributor...
pic
The distributor should have two VR sensors, one on the 24T wheel (crank sensor) and one
on the 4T wheel (cam sensor). The manual refers to these as crank and cam tach signals
as they are reading the speed of the trigger wheels, but they have ZERO connection with
any TACH output to the tachometer on your dash.
pic
Inside the distributor there will usually be a blue wire, a red wire and two white wires.
The white wires are spliced together and appear outside the distributor as a single wire.
Note that in this pic the blue wire is hidden under the white wire. You will need to separate
the two white wires and extend them to connect to the Mocrosquirt.
The MSD has now become a simple igniter box and will receive its trigger signal from the
Microsquirt (refer to Page 72 of the Microsquirt manual).
Cheers... jondee86
jondee86 wrote:What you have wired up is a generic ignition module. It takes the AC signal from
the VR sensor and conditions it to produce a 12V DC square wave output. The output
can be used as a cam signal to fire a single coil in the same way that points ignition
takes a cam signal off the distributor shaft. Works for carbed engines with fixed
ignition advance.
For an EFI engine the ECU needs more information and it gets this from the crank
position sensor in the distributor. The Microsquirt has its own signal conditioning
built-in allowing the VR sensors to be connected direct to the ECU without the need
for the generic ignition module (igniter). So yes, the Microsquirt needs both signals.
The Microsquirt processes the VR inputs, adds ignition advance and sends a trigger
signal to the MSB box which then fires the coil. This is different to a carbed engine
where the MSD box can take a conditioned VR signal from the igniter and add some
ignition advance before firing the coil.
I would recommend that you follow the wiring instructions in the Microsquirt manual
and delete the generic ignition module plus any unnecessary wiring. The wiring from
the VR sensors to the ECU is sensitive to electrical noise. So if you follow the manual
regarding using shielded wires and eliminate extra joins/splices you will possibly
save yourself problems down the line.
Cheers... jondee86
Your MicroSquirt® EFI controller will limit the injector current to ~5 Amps per driver. This
may be too much for the injectors, especially if you only have one or two low-impedance
injectors per driver. High-impedance injectors (i.e. injectors that have a DC resistance of
more than 10 Ohms) will not flow more than ~1 Amp at any time, so they do not need any
additional current limiting. Low-impedance injectors (< 3 Ohms) can flow up to 15 Amps if
not limited, and this will burn them up. To do this, use a 5 to 8 ohm resistor (with a 20 to
25 watt rating) in series with each injector.
jondee86 wrote:Just a thought.... you can use low resistance injectors if you put resistors in line with them
to limit the current draw. That's what the resistor pack on some versions of the 4AGE does.Your MicroSquirt® EFI controller will limit the injector current to ~5 Amps per driver. This
may be too much for the injectors, especially if you only have one or two low-impedance
injectors per driver. High-impedance injectors (i.e. injectors that have a DC resistance of
more than 10 Ohms) will not flow more than ~1 Amp at any time, so they do not need any
additional current limiting. Low-impedance injectors (< 3 Ohms) can flow up to 15 Amps if
not limited, and this will burn them up. To do this, use a 5 to 8 ohm resistor (with a 20 to
25 watt rating) in series with each injector.
http://www.useasydocs.com/details/inject.htm about 3/4 of the way down the page.
Cheers... jondee86
If you are using Denso injectors 